July 5, 2009 | Bangkok
Issue #294: Tipping Point

10 Out of 10 - 10 Hong Kong hot picks on the 10th anniversary of the handover

To celebrate the first decade of Hong Kong’s return to China in 1997, 460 events are scheduled to take place throughout the coming year. This month’s highlights include a Pride of China exhibition featuring paintings and calligraphy that will run through August 11 at the Hong Kong Museum of Art. (For a complete schedule of events, go to www.gov.hk/en/theme/10/index.htm.) Being good Thais, we are happy to jump at any excuse to join a party. In that spirit, BK has come up with a list of the 10 top things to eat, bars you should visit, and things to shop for on your next trip to HKSAR (Hong Kong Special Administrative Region).

Ten Things to Eat

smallWhat: Cha Siu at West Villa Restaurant (Shop 208, Cityplaza II, Tai Koo, 852-2885-4478)
Why: It all started with Hong Kong mothers’ favorite curse: “I’d rather have given birth to a piece of cha siu than to you.” Strong words, sure, but it’s not as bad as it sounds. Cha siu (roast pork) was hardly the cheap lunchtime takeaway it is today. Only when there was something to celebrate would you go to West Villa, which makes the sweetest, juiciest cha siu in town.

smallWhat: Egg tarts at Hoover Cake Shop (136 Nga Tsin Wai Rd., Kowloon, 852-2382-0383)
Why: If you think an egg tart can’t do that much damage to your health, think again—according to Hong Kong’s Center for Food Safety, an egg tart has 320 calories. In context, if you weighed 60kg, you’d need to jog for 20 minutes to burn off a single tart, which is why they’re so delicious (People used to detour to Hoover and buy tarts before catching a flight at the old Kai Tak airport.)

smallWhat: Beef brisket noodles at Kau Kee (21 Gough St., Central, 852-2815-0123)
Why: Kau Kee seems pretentious when you look at their schedule: It closes on Sun, opens Mon-Sat from 12:30pm (even though there’s a queue beginning at noon) and closes for cleaning from 7:15-8pm. Well, whatever it takes to keep these guys going, because they make the hands-down best beef brisket noodles in town, selling for a cheerful HK$20-30. You haven’t had beef brisket until you’ve had theirs.

smallWhat: Lap Mei Fan at Bo Innovation (32-38 Ice House St., Central, 852-2850-8371)
Why: Mad chef “Demon” Alvin Yeung Jr. draws inspiration from the world’s most innovative chefs to incorporate molecular gastronomy with classic Chinese dishes. His lap mei fan is a variation on duck with a foam infusion, and a delicate, artful presentation. It also happens to be delicious.

smallWhat: Four-fish-treasure noodles at Han Loon Tse Kee Fish Ball (80-82 Old Main St., Aberdeen, 852-2552-3809)
Why: Only HK$28 for a huge bowl of fish balls with fried fish skin. Freshly made daily with real fish, not that ubiquitous (and dubious) dough with MSG mixture. Eating at Shan Loon Tse Kee requires a bit of patience—at lunch hour you have to queue for half an hour to get a table.

smallWhat: High tea at The Peninsula (1/F, Salisbury Rd., Kowloon, 852-2315-3169)
Why: Having high tea at the Pen has always been about status—in the past, no Chinese person would want to go in to try the famous almond roll on the high-tea tray if he didn’t speak any English, according to a retired waiter who worked there in the 1970s.

smallWhat: Baked rice with pork chop at Mido Café (63 Temple St., Yau Ma Tei, 852-2384-6402)
Why: Sitting on a corner on Temple Street for the past 56 years, this two-floor restaurant is a testimonial to Hong Kong’s dining culture. The art deco tiles lining its walls are so popular with photographers that Mido has banned picture taking inside for fear of disturbing their older customers, who care less about nostalgia than about enjoying their favorite fried rice with spare ribs.

smallWhat: Spicy fried crab at Under the Bridge (401-402, 405, 414 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 852-2834-6818; 852-2893-1289)
Why: There are actually four restaurants, all within walking distance in this little foodie haven literally located under a bridge, and they all serve exactly the same thing—a mean spicy crab, each delivered as fresh as it can be, plucked from the sea and served with a mountain of fried chilies, scallions and garlic chips.

smallWhat: Steamed rice with duck sauce wrapped in lotus leaves at Tung Po (2/F, Java Road Municipal Bldg., 99 Java Rd., North Point, 852-2880-9399)
Why: In the 80s, the government attempted to get rid of wet markets by forcing them into municipal service buildings. But thanks to top-quality diners like Tung Po, this kind of market dining is coming back. Tung Po is known as the celeb’s canteen, with regular patrons such as Chow Yun-fat. All of their dishes are fantastic—but we’re recommending this steamed rice because it’s so popular you have to order it a day in advance.

What: The wonton noodles at Mak’s Noodle (77 Wellington St., Central, 852-2854-3810)
Why: These little bowls of pure deliciousness are small for a reason. Mak’s insists the small portions can be gulped down quickly without the dumplings going soggy. All that matter is this small bowl of wonton
noodles is cheap, filling and delicious. This is what Hong Kong cuisine is.

Ten Bars You Should Visit

smallWhere: Inn Side Out (G/F, Sunning Plaza, 10 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 852-2895-2900)
Why: Sit outside enjoying the sweltering summer, or sit in the large dining room and pretend you’re enjoying the sweltering summer. This sports bar serves a great menu of pasta and snacks, and has several imported beers on tap, including Hoegaarden.

Where: Dragon-I (UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 852-3110-1222)
Why: While unbearably hip in the evening, Dragon-i has a great wood terrace for daylight
drinks. They serve a small menu of Japanese and light Chinese fare alongside their usual drinks list.

Where: Qing (3 Mee Lun St., Central, 852-2815-6739)
Why: It’s a wine bar and restaurant with outdoor seating in front and out back. Their wines cover an impressive range, with prices from about HK$60 for a glass of house wine up to several thousand for a good vintage bottle.

smallWhere: Fong Underground (B/F, 34 D’Aguilar St., Central, 852-2523-2002)
Why: New, hipper incarnation in the space once known as D’Apartment, the décor is seductive oriental chic. Mid-twenties yuppies, are out for a relaxing evening Mon-Wed, or a more happening night on Thu-Sat, when resident DJ Jay spins chill-out and house.

Where: Balalaika (M/F, LKF Tower, 55 D’Aguilar St., Central, 852-3579-2929)
Why: Home to the famed Siberian Vodka Room where at -20 degrees Celsius, it’s so cold a tiny rogue snowstorm would take one look, scream and call it a day. Fur coats are provided for the non-PETA-minded, and the over 60 types of vodka cover a range from peach and vanilla to incredible varnish-esque flavors for the man’s man.

Where: Opia (1/F, JIA Hong Kong, 1-5 Irving St., Causeway Bay, 852-3196-9100)
Why: Tucked in a gorgeous boutique hotel, Opia recently launched a killer new cocktail menu with fresh (some might say “cool”) concoctions like the palate-refreshing gin, limon-cello and lemon basil Citrus Delight or the spiced-marma-lade-inspired Cuban Club.

smallWhere: Wasabi (8/F, LKF Tower, 55 D’Aguilar St., Central, 852-2523-3006)
Why: Nothing oozes easy cool like being Japanese, and you just may be able to capture some of that chilly reserve if you head to this sleek cocktail bar and restaurant, populated with velvety red seats, tatami mats and a long, shiny catwalk. Awesomely inventive drinks.

Where: Halo (LG/F, 10-12 Stanley St., Central, 852-2810-1460)
Why: If you get past the electronic face scanner and double-
barreled bouncer attack, you’ll get to enjoy the frosty heaven of being hip enough to get in. Halo also has a great menu of elaborate cocktails, premium liquors and gourmet snacks in the line of molten chocolate cake and giant shrimp cocktail.

Where: Yun Fu (B/F, 43-55 Wyndham St., Central, 852-2116-8855)
Why: This Northern Chinese restaurant-bar is one of the first bars to serves cocktails incorporating Chinese spirits. Ginseng flavored booze? Bamboo cocktails? The drinks here are fresh and totally unlike cocktails found in most bars around town.

Where: Lumiere (3101, Podium Level 3, IFC Mall, Central, 852-2393-3933)
Why: Touted as “the next generation of cocktails,” Lumiere’s latest liquid lineup takes fusion to new heights. The restaurant’s innovative range of Eurasian creations swirl Chinese flavors into Western mixes. Cosmopolitan elites are the regulars.

Ten Things To Shop For

What: H&M Loves Kylie collection at H&M (68 Queen’s Rd., Central)
Why: H&M honors sexy popper Kylie Minogue with its exclusive “H&M Loves Kylie” collection. The beachwear collection takes its cue from Kylie’s fusion of laid back Aussie style and vintage pinup allure. Drape yourself in flowing aquamarine scarves, tops and skirts, bathe in purple, silver and gold swimsuits, and complete the look with cool shades, bags and accessories.

What: Eyewear at Alain Mikli (Shop 247, Pacific Place, Admiralty, 852-2523-0086)
Why: For specs with sex appeal, try the funky range at the new designer eyewear store. The 32 square-meter shop follows the same design as the brand’s flagship store in Paris. As well as the Alain Mikli signature line, you will find frames by Starck Eyes, Issey Miyake and Miklistudio.

What: Bling bling belt at On Pedder (20 Pedder St., Central, 852-2118-3388)
Why: If you have HK$169,000 lying around, you can cinch your waist with this stunning belt woven from delicate strands of 18-karat gold by French jewelry designer, Marie Hélène de Taillac.

What: Chinese games at G.O.D. (Leighton Center, Sharp St. East Entrance, Causeway Bay, 852-
2890-5555)
Why: Kitschy contemporary renditions of traditional Chinese gambling games such as “Big Small” and “Fish Prawn Crab” roll up at G.O.D. Each of these cute coffee table adornments comes with sleek packaging and is a blast to play.

What: Veggie skincare at Lane Crawford (1 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 852-2845-1838)
Why: Born of the personal philosophy of Stella McCartney—a strict vegetarian—CARE is a sumptuous range of skincare products using 100 percent certified bio-active organic ingredients. Packed with essential nutrients, it is designed especially for people who want to adopt a more natural way of life.

What: Designer chairs at Kartell (Shop 105-106, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Dudell St., Central, 852-2810-0408)
Why: Italian furniture company Kartell has teamed up with some of the world’s leading fashion designers to create a new line called “Mademoiselle à la Mode.” Moschino’s iconic cloud motif is just one of the funky fabrics and unusual treatments given to Philippe Starck’s original Mademoiselle chair.

smallWhat: Keds at Pedder Red (Shop 509-10, Time Square, Causeway Bay, 852-2118-3581)
Why: Wear art on your soles with these cool Keds featuring the prints of rock poster artist Eleanor Grosch. They feature Grosch’s signature bold colors and fascination with animal prints. Spotted on the feet of a host of celebrities including Gwen Steffani.

smallWhat: Korean-waved bag at Celine (The Landmark, Shop G40, 15 Queen’s Road Central, 852-2525-1281)
Why: Celine has teamed up with Korean pop star Song Hye Kyo to produce a new version of its “Bit-
tersweet” bag. Available in chocolate leather with a lilac sating lining, this limited-edition vintage-style bag is only available in Asia.

What: Chic wears at Orla Keily (Shop 511, 5/F, Time Square, Causeway Bay, 852-3101-9255, www.orlakeily.com)
Why: Dublin-born, London-based designer Orla Kiely has come a long way in the past 10 years, riding on the back of her much-loved signature stem-print handbags in vibrant colors.

What: Things for X men at G-TOX Streetwear (Shop 7, G/F, Hong Kong Pacific Center, 2 Tsim Sha Tsui, 852-3583-4500)
Why: New streetwear brand G-TOX has landed. The label, which stands for “gravity to the extreme,” focuses on casual urban wear such as jeans, T-shirts and acces-
sories. With close links to sports, the brand sponsors 25 international competitors. ■

ESSENTIALS

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

HK$1 = B4

GETTING THERE

THAI Airways (02-356-1111, www.thaiair.com) operates several flights a day to Hong Kong beginning at B11,550 roundtrip, excluding taxes and insurance.

Cathay Pacific (02-263-0606,www.cathaypacific.com) also flies there with fares starting at B13,085, all inclusive.

Emirates (02-664-1040, http://fly.emirates.com) frequently offers special rates beginning at B8,375 not
including taxes.

WHERE TO STAY

The newly renovated Park Hotel (61-65 Chatham Road South, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 852-2731-2100, www.parkhotel.com.hk) offers modern stylish rooms in the heart of Tsimshatsui. Through the end of August they are running a promotional rate of HK$700 for a night in a superior room or HK$900 for a deluxe room.

The hip Cosmo Hotel (375-377 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, 852-3552-8388, www.cosmohotel.com.hk) has sleek color-coded rooms starting from HK$700, through Sep 30. For a higher end experience,

Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong (5 Connaught Rd., Central, 852-2522-0111, www.mandarinoriental.com.hk) offers its famous five-star service and amenities. Internet rates start at HK$2,550 a night.