Ari has long been known as a residential neighborhood popular with the city’s well-to-do residents in search of a quiet village feel, wide choice of restaurants and excellent links to the rest of the city. But is that peace and quiet under threat? Take a walk around the area and you can’t help notice the rash of new condos sprouting up, replacing the stately family homes of old. Does it spell the beginning of the end? We can’t predict the future but some locals are already beginning to grumble. We say head there now to enjoy the unique vibe before it disappears forever. Here’s a roundup of the best places to chill in Ari. (And before you ask, no we didn’t just go to La Villa—there is a world outside of this community mall.)
1. Jinnikorn Academy (5/8 Ari Soi 1, 02-279-6105. Open Mon-Sat 7am-7pm)
The owner, Khun Chomsak, has been styling hair for the past 30 years but, recently, the traditional salon and hair academy has expanded into an Aladdin’s cave of different products for sale. Take your pick from movie DVDs, music CDs, hair products and shoes while you slurp on the chanom khaimook he sells out front for B15 a cup. Chomsak does still offer classes and you can still get a trim at the salon out back, but only if you make a reservation first. No walk-in customers.
2. Yoo Yang Thai, Northern traditional shop (Booth 49, CO-OP Phranakorn Bldg., 08-1406-9449. Open daily 11:30am-7:30pm)
Imagine a baby version of It’s Happened To Be A Closet for traditional Northern clothes. In a laid back Chiang Mai vibe, browse clothes, bags, souvenirs, shoes, accessories and paintings. Most of the clothes were designed by the owner and made by local hill tribe people so you can feel like your doing your bit for the community. Pay anything from B59-10,000.
3. Banana Family Park, (Baan Ari 17 Ari Soi 1, 02-279-7838. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. www.bananafamilypark.com)
Tear your little brother or young cousin from their Wii and give them an alternative way to spend their time thanks to the dharma library, which provides a range of contemplative titles for all the family. They also organize meditation classes and occasional camping trips. This peaceful enclave in the heart of the city, also contains a range of other calming options including a yoga musical school, a gym and fitness center, a beauty clinic, coffee shop and even a vegetarian restaurant.
4. Chakran (Ari Soi 4, 02-279-1359. www.chakransuana.com)
For a less spiritual release, there are other diversions. Sathorn has the infamous Babylon, Ari has Chakran. This massive, luxurious, multi-story gay sauna houses a swimming pool, fitness, karaoke, steam, Jacuzzi and video rooms as well as a dark maze and private rooms for the pleasure-seeking pink crowds. They even offer special monthly packages so you can come again and again.
5. The Nineteenth Boutique Cafe (19 Ari Soi 1, 02-278-3863. Open daily 10am-8pm)
Combine shopping and relaxation at this café filled with a collection of cute objects from hand-painted cups and dishes to bags and décor accessories, all at affordable prices. The small corner café means you can grab a cake a coffee, and if you are lucky, one of the limited seats.
6. Muse Garden Restaurant & Gallery (2/23 Ari Soi 5, 02-619-5107. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-11pm.)
Owned by photographer Musetew this restaurant come gallery is situated in a quiet corner of the soi. Downstairs you’ll find a cute little patio while the second floor offers a garden to enjoy the breeze while you dine on Thai food with a western twist. Then take a wander through the gallery and enjoy the rotating photographic exhibitions by the owner and his friends.
7. Wawee (7 Phaholyothin 7, opposite My House hotel, 02-619-9938. Open daily 7am-10pm. www.wawee.co.th)
Chiangmai’s most popular coffee shop makes an appearance in Ari, letting you order a premium selection of local blends like Aeung Fah, Doi Luang, Intanon and Lanna Blend. Choose to enjoy your cup of Joe in their air-con indoor seating, decked out in the brand’s distinctive orange and brown, or in the outdoor garden.
8. The Coffee Zelection (Phaholyothin Soi 7, 02-619-6420. Open daily
11am-11pm)
This tiny pink shack offers a laidback homey vibe and a basic wood theme in both the air-con interior and the outdoor veranda. Coffee, tea and juice are available as well an impressive range of desserts. In addition, they offer western dishes like spaghetti, sandwiches and soup, including a breakfast set. We recommend the club sandwich (B120) and a hot cappuccino (B50).
9. Macchiato (34 Phaholyothin Soi 7, 02-617-2691. www.macchiato-b.com. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-10pm, Sun 9:30am-8pm)
This cute coffee shop offers a little oasis of calm amid all the hustle and bustle of the Soi. Sit outside on the rustic chairs surrounded by potted plants or squeeze into the tiny glass box interior which is also home to a glass cabinet packed with delicious looking desserts. Try the banoffi pie (B70) washed down with a caramel macchiato (B60).
10. After you (2/F La Villa 356 Phaholyothin Soi 6, 02-613-0597. Open daily 10am-10:30pm)
Like the branch in Thong Lor this hip eatery is also contained in a community mall, in this case La Villa. As it’s owned by a food writer with a passion for Japanese-style treats, you can expect to sample a host of gastronomic goodies normally only seen on Japanese cooking shows. Try their super buttery honey toast topped with vanilla ice cream.
Barhopping
11. Pla Dib (1/1 Arisamphan Soi 7, 02-279-8185. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight)
The restaurant-cum-bar is a magnet for the area’s young indie-loving partygoers who gather to enjoy the raw fish and beer. They come for the extremely chilled attitude and to taste a wide selection of fusion-style raw fish while they relax on the basic wood tables and stools and comfy sofas. Our recommendation, try the prawn chili pizza. The second floor of this minimal concrete space holds occasional exhibitions.
12. Sofa So Good (50 Phaholyothin Soi 7, 02-617-0909. Open daily 5pm-1am)
You go to Sofa So Good to cheer yourselves up. And it will probably work, not just because it serves a decent selection of global wines at moderate prices but also because of their colorful décor: primary color chairs, red curtains, orange lamps and yellow table cloths. The mood is further brightened by their list of Italian-inspired entrees. Don’t forget to order yourself some homemade cake to go along with your glass of vino.
13. Moods (133 Rama 6 Rd., Soi 30, 02-270-1515. Open daily 6pm-late. www.moodsbangkok.com)
The Ari nightlife favorite gives off a similar vibe to many spots on Thonglor or Ekkmai—just without the chaos. Cozy up in their gray cubicles and order yourself the must-try signature drink, the flaming three-tier “Shooter Moods” while you indulge in the volcano chicken and tap your feet to popular pop and rock music performed by the rotating live bands.
14. Aaari Ba Bar (Phaholyothin Soi 7, opposite Baan Tree House, 02-279-7660. Open daily 6pm-midnight)
Walk straight from BTS Ari and keep a look out for the big orange sign. This little place looks like a cheerful café but is really a friendly neighborhood bar, popular with locals who’ve been coming to enjoy its eclectic atmosphere for the past six years.
15. Carnival (1/1 Ari Soi 2, 02-617-3907. Open daily 6pm-1am)
For something completely different, you shouldn’t miss Carnival, an inter-version of Ngan Wat with its classic Western cowboy décor . Enjoy a beer while listening to the easy pop music and snacking on pla thod samoonpai and larb moo thod.
Local Knowledge
Hungry? Thirsty? Try these tips from Ari’s residents.
Surachai Boonariya, 24, architect
has been living at The Seed Condo in Phaholyothin Soi 14 for one year.
“I would have to recommend Pla Dib, Sofa So Good and The Lobby (Phaholyothin Soi 5, 02-619-5330) : great places to hang out with friends at night. I also love lingering at Wawee on my day’s off.”
Dookdik, 26, TV producer
has been living in a shared house in Ari Soi 2 for two years.
“I love hanging out at Pla Dib, Wawee and another chill out cafe, Puritan (46/1 Ari Soi 5, 02-357-1099. Open Sun-Thu noon-11pm, Fri-Sat noon-midnight).”
Ploy, 23, account executive
has stayed on Inthamara 22, for over 10 years.
“Thai restaurant Baan Puengchom (38 Phaholyothin Soi 7, 02-279-4204. Open Mon-Sat 4:30-10pm) at the end of Soi Chua Chit is always top of my list. Food is extremely homey and a good price. And, of course, Pla Dib is also recommended.”
Noi-Noppadol Prasertkul, 41, interior designer
grew up and still lives in Piboonwattana village on Soi Ari.
“I’m addicted to Nongkai (Ari Soi 1, 02-279-9398. Open daily 9:30am-8:30pm), their Vietnamese dishes and their coconut jelly are really good. Walk into Soi Ari, find Khao Kha Moo on the left side. Keep walking till you find Kuayteawkuakai on the right. Before you reach Yoswadi Bldg., you’ll see Yentafour on the right and there’s also good coconut ice-cream nearby.”
Ethan Ng, 38, senior IT consultant
“The larb moo thod is a must try at Carnival, Ari Soi 2...that’s the best."
Chernporn Chakriyanuyok, 35
has been running a business from her home in Arisamphan Soi 1 for the past 8 years.
“Suan Kularb (162 Phaholyothin Soi 5, 02-617-0425. Open daily 11am-11pm), a Thai & Chinese restaurant is my best bet. Piak Phad Thai at the corner of Ari Soi 2 and Kuay Jub Ratchawong Ming in between Ari Soi 1 and 2 are also highly recommended. Plus, don’t miss out on the street food like the fried fish balls at the corner of Soi Ari and incredible Moo Ping trolleys along the way.”
Prayer Kavitanon, 35, editor-in-chief
has lived in Phaholyothin Soi 14 for almost 20 years.
“Kuayteaw Naichui (30 Phaholyothin Soi 7, 02-733-6866) at the corner of Yoswadi Bldg., I’ve been a fan since I was a teenager.”
BK Asks: Is Ari changing?
Kee, 22, Student
“Yes, I definitely want to see less building. Especially the high-rise developments—they’re definitely making pollution a problem”
Chernporn Chakriyanuyok, 35, business owner
“The worse part about all the condos is some of my favorite street trolleys have been kicked out by the landowner. The charm of Ari is going to fade sooner than we think.”
Taitawan, 29, waiter
“This place is unique. It’s both peaceful and lively at the same time. Ari shouldn’t change.”
Dookdik, 26, TV producer
“I don’t think we need any more condos here. Different group of people will show up and the peacefulness may disappear. I think a lot of Ari residents agree with this.”
