2009 was a terrible year for business. In fact, flipping through our back issues, we were amazed at how many new hotels, bars and restaurants opened despite the economic slump. Some didn’t make it (some didn’t deserve to make it) but others were truly great additions to our lives. Here, we round up our favorites in the fields of nightlife, food, shopping and travel.
BEST BARS
We run one On the Bar a week so that’s a lot of new bars—most of which are completely forgettable (not to mention those that have already closed). And in fact, looking back through the year it seems that the major trend was old time favorites getting makeovers or moving locations. Still there were a few new faces that managed to stand out from the crowd.
Butter Butter
Opened: Sep 2009
Located behind the Esplanade and next door to Inch, Butter Butter tries to bring a touch of Thonglor to Ratchadapisek. Despite promises to bring in big name “inter” acts, it currently offers local DJs and live bands playing radio hits. Still, it’s worth a mention thanks to its impressive look. A whitewashed honeycomb façade, long glass panels and wavy, perforated white walls, conceal a contemporary interior that’s big on neon lighting and houses what we would call a proper stage and dance floor in the roomy main space. You can always escape to the softer tones and house music of the cafe lounge if it all gets too much.
• 55/9, Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-641-2222. Open daily, 6pm-3am. MRT Thailand Cultural Center. www.butterbutterthailand.com.
Demo
Opened: Jul 2009
Something new to break up the cookie cutter offerings on Thonglor arrived in the form of Demo: no live bands and a five-page drink menu that would be at home on Soi 11. It’s located in the same enclave as another notable newcomer, Funky Villa, but it’s definitely going for a rougher look with its spray-painted walls and abandoned factory feel (it’s actually on the first floor of a disused apartment building). The sound provided by the DJ ranges from nu-disco, electronic, house, tech and progressive and there are signs that this will include some bigger name international acts in the not-too-distant future. Expect a well-heeled Thonglor crowd with an appetite for something a little different.
• Thonglor Soi 10, 02-711-6970/1. Open daily 8pm-2am.
Ezili
Opened: Jul 2009
The fact that this bar overlooks Arena 10 Indoor Soccer Pitch is pretty unique to begin with. Nothing like having a drink while you watch far healthier individuals exercise down below. It’s also a very elegant venue—high ceilings, big bay windows framed in black steel, and minimalist seating. There’s also a real cocktail menu, unlike most places in Thonglor, and an equally impressive choice of food. If that weren’t enough to lure you in then there are also plans to add a champagne bar upstairs sometime early next year.
• 2/F, Arena 10 Football Pitch, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-392-2317. Open daily 11-1am.
Suea Non Kin
Opened: May 2009
Some would argue that this is more of a restaurant than a bar (we even reviewed it as such in Sep, http://bkmagazine.com/feature/suea-non-kin) but we feel that it’s really the potent cocktails and the relaxed vibe that brings in the hordes of young professionals to this hidden two-story home. Decked out in an eclectic mix of comfy vintage sofas, low-rise tables and decorative bric-a-brac it quickly fills up, making reservations essential unless you want to enjoy the interesting mix of gap glaem outside with the wooden ducks.
• 231/2 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-1779. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight.
Rolling Bar
Opened: Apr 2009
Small can be beautiful according to this quirky bar/restaurant run by Khun Oum from the Vespa Cabro Club. They don’t go for style here but a relaxed neighborhood vibe, with mismatched furniture, bare brick walls, chipped yellow paint and a smattering of knick-knacks. People come for the chilled out vibe, especially in the outdoor section, and live music, covering everything from the 70s through to current indie hits.
• Wanchat Rd., 08-1867-6568. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-late.
T11
Opened: Sep 2009
A group of models and their friends wanted T11 to be a venue where food, music and art go hand in hand. Apart from its white paint, tall waterfall glass panels, grey brick walls and high sloped ceilings, the usual collection of vintage bric-a-brac also makes an appearance, alongside a series of paintings (for sale) on the second floor. Sit down at the table in the dining area or plop down on the couch for a chat-and-chill session with easy-listening tunes from two house bands and DJs on different nights.
• End of Thonglor Soi 11, 02-712-8362. Open daily 8pm-2am.
Revamps
2009 saw a lot of long-time favorites try to tempt us back to their bars courtesy of a facelift or a change of location:
Lollipop
(re)Opened: Apr 2009
There was a change of name, as well as décor, for what used to be Lullabar. Still they kept the same vibe, just gave it a cute coating with plenty of pastel paints and whimsical vintage pieces. They did retain the menu and their dedication to offering the best in indie pop with their nightly bands.
• 1 Mahannop Soi 1, Mahannop Road, Pra Nakorn, 08-6339-1390. Open daily 5pm-1am.
Bangkok Bar
(re)Opened: May 2009
A partner from the old Bangkok Bar decided to relocate and scored an instant hit. The converted three-story greenhouse-shop house offers live music by the pool out front or DJs inside. Climb to the third floor for beach-style seating and shisha.
• Soi Rambutri, Khaosan Rd., 02-629-4443. Open daily 6pm-late.
Jam
(re)Opened: Jul 2009
One of Thonglor’s long-serving nightlife institutions, Jam made the short move to J Avenue. Now sporting a Mediterranean theme, it plays the same hit music but with the added bonus of a rooftop location.
• 4/F, J Avenue, Soi Thonglor. Open Mon-Sat, 6:30pm-late.
Y-50
(re)Opened: Sep 2009
Check out last week’s On the Bar at bkmagazine.com/feature/y50-music-amp-gallery
• Ekamai Soi 21, near BTS Ekkamai, 02-715-0703. Open daily 6pm-late.
Jet
(re)Opened: September, 2009
People went crazy when this nightspot first opened, and to make sure we didn’t get bored, the owners moved the whole thing to more distinguished surroundings. Other than that, the place still features four distinct zones: outdoor, stage, wine bar and cigar bar.
• Ekamai, Sukhumvit 63 (near Big C), 08-6786-3745. Open daily 7pm-late.
Curve
(re)Opened: November, 2009
Curve’s back with an even more avant-garde decor and lots more room for you to run amuck. Bathed in seductive glowing purple, the club still retains the live music space, but they’ve also added “BPM” (beats per minute), a new zone where you can get a dose of house and electro.
• 59/9 Sukhumvit 93 (Ekamai 63), 02-741-2323. Open daily 7pm-late.
Song Sangleung
(re)Opened: Sep 2009
Turn to page 26 for our On the Bar.
• 387/23-29, Thonglor Soi 21, 02-715-0703.
Open daily, 7pm-late.
DINING ‘09
The New Four-Stars
In 2009, we handed out four one-star reviews and not a single five star accolade. That’s partly because we were holding out for our Top New Tables cover story, which came out this November (bkmagazine.com/feature/new-plates), some of which could potentially get five-star reviews early next year. Meanwhile, here’s a list of restaurants that didn’t necessarily open recently (some are very old, in fact) but were all reviewed in 2009, and given four stars, which was as good as it got.
Yim Yim
Talk about overdue: this restaurant has been a landmark of Yaowarat for some four generations. Last time we dined there, the grandfather was still around (his father started it) but the grandchildren had no plans to take over. Let’s hope they change their minds. The loss of such great raw fish with sesame seeds, ham in goat’s skin and chicken broth would break our hearts, and those of their ancestors.
• Chinese. 89 Padsai Rd., 02-224-2203/5. Open daily 11am-11pm. No corkage charge. BB-BBB
6th Fratello
The “Sixth Brother” was one of the first of the 2009 generation of chefs in Bangkok, out to prove that Gianni and Zanotti aren’t the only ones who can cook Italian food. It was to be followed by a host of restaurants that have raised the bar even higher but we still vouch for 6th Fratello’s service, fresh ingredients and light touch.
• 40/25 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-391-9946. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm.
La Bottega di Luca
La Bottega di Luca is both a deli and a restaurant. Chef Luca’s food stands out with his attention to presentation and product-focused cuisine, as dishes rotate based on arrivals and seasons. Expect a hefty bill but it’s well worth the money.
• Terrace 49, 49 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight. Corkage B590. BBBB
Khua Kling Pak Sod
In our arcane rating system, best-of-class is usually worth five stars, and Khua Kling Pak Sod could well be the best Southern restaurant in town. But that’s a heated debate we haven’t settled, yet. Speaking of heat, bring your tissues. This place is unapologetically Southern so you can expect full-on spices, not to mention fantastic curries and plump, pungent sataw.
• 10/4 Sukhumvit Soi 40, 02-391-1855, 08-6307-1850. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2pm, 6-9pm. No corkage charge. BB
Raan Deur
Raan Deur’s been around for over a decade, which makes it a dinosaur compared to the recent proliferation of jim joom (Isaan hotpot) and muu krata (DIY pork BBQ) places. At B90 for the jim joom and the muu krata, prices have remained very reasonable, too. It may not be fancy, but Raan Deur is generous, bursting with flavor, spices and authentic atmosphere.
• 371 Narathiwas Soi 24, 02-674-3040. Open daily 3pm-1am. B
New Srifa 33
Famous for it’s khao tom, this restaurant’s review was also long-overdue. But Srifa 33, now run by the fourth generation, serves much more than rice porridge, and somehow manages to bridge the street-side khao tom stall and your classic Chinese restaurant divide with dishes like the stir-fried water mimosa, minced pork with Chinese olives, and their home-style sweetened diced-pork—all fresh, all wonderfully executed.
• 12/19 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-2649. www.newsrifa33.com. Open daily
5pm-4am. No corkage. BB
Sambuca
Sambuca was a close call: we were getting so bored of Italian restaurants by the time it opened. And Sambuca’s menu did nothing to stand out from the crowd. But it’s set in a rather elegant house and, more importantly, everyone who’s eaten there has returned with rave reviews for its great meat, fantastic wood-fired pizza and fresh salads.
• 139/3 South Sathon Rd., 02-286-8805. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-11pm.
Corkage B360. BBBB
Xinn Tien Di
We usually dock stars off mall restaurants just because they’re, well, mall restaurants. We can’t take a place that throws you out at 10pm seriously. But when that place serves a B590 Peking duck this amazing, you have to reconsider your principles. Go for lunch, when you’re less likely to be the only diners, and make sure you also order the delicious dim sum (B60-100)—plump, fresh and juicy.
• Gaysorn, 3/F, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-2114-5. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. No corkage. BBB
Price guide
B Under B400
BB B400-700
BBB B700-1,000
BBBB B1,000 and up
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert.
SHOPPING
We’re still waiting for the arrival of Gap (early next year) and H&M (who knows when), but there were some interesting new developments on the retail front in 2009, particularly neighborhood friendly community-style malls.
Digital Gateway
Opened: August, 2009
With a rumored investment of B500 million,â¯Digital Gateway found its way to Siam Square and looked to pave the way for tomorrow’s tech malls—the post-Pantip world. An elevated walkway connected to BTS Siam leads gen D geeks to cool and classy technology shops like bananaIT (3/F), iStudio (1/F), ECOshop (1/F) and 73 Saint Germain (5/F,) that will replace the nostalgic, chaotic stalls of the pirate software sellers.
• Between Siam Square Soi 3 and 4, BTS Siam
Bangkok Art and Cultural Center
Opened: May, 2009
We’re a bit disappointed by the BACC’s performance as an Art & Culture Center so far, but it’s turning into a pretty fun place to walk around on Sunday afternoons. Bizarre ice-cream parlors, shops run by associations and artist collectives, workshops and galleries: the BACC’s second and third floor are finally coming to life.
• Rama 1 Intersection, BTS National Stadium
It’s Happened to be a Closet
Opened: October, 2009
Khao San’s It’s Happened to be a Closet spawns a coffee shop in Paragon then a fashion boutique-cum-hair salon-cum-coffee shop in Emporium. The cult tribal-inspired clothes retailer seems to be developing Greyhound-esque ambitions. 2010 will tell if they can last the distance.
• 2/F, The Emporium, 02-664-7211/2
OP Garden
Opened: October, 2009
This three-level lifestyle enclave boasts almost 30 upscale outlets catering to pretty much all your needs, from furniture shops like Reflections and Solutions to restaurant and cafes like Mango Tree Signature and Doitung. You can definitely expect more community malls like this in 2010.
• Chareonkrung 39, Chareonkrung Rd.
Crystal Design Center
Opened: November, 2009
Located on Paditmanutham Road, Crystal Design Center might be out of town but it is also the only community mall devoted to design, architecture, interior design, furniture and household appliances. The vast area houses eight buildings from home decoration brands including Index Living Mall and the cutting-edge SCG the Experience.
• Praditmanutham Rd., 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com
HOT HOTELS
We really feel for those hoteliers who opened this year. Let’s wish them better luck for 2010, particularly the people behind these hot properties:
Sala Khaoyai
Opened: Nov 2009
We’d love to say we’ve stayed at one of the seven rooms and pool villas but, well, not yet. All we’ve seen are computer renderings where the decor seemed to go for a very mineral, rustic touch. But we do love Khao Yai and the place isn’t exactly crowded with great properties at present. With Hua Hin becoming unaffordable and way too busy, this new SALA resort is something to really thank 2009 for. Deluxe rooms start from B6,000 in January or “make the whole resort yours” for over B62,000 per night.
• Bangkok sales office 02-231-2588 or resort 044-760-500. www.salaresorts.com/khaoyai.
X2 Rayong
Opened: Jul 2009
This one has over twice as many rooms! Ok, that’s still just 15. We like X2’s clean, modern design and good finishing but this one might just be a bit too clunky. Yet, the pivacy of the balconies, the interior design and the secluded beach more than make up for it. This January, deluxe rooms are just B4,419, seaview’s B5,099 and the owner’s suite B12,915.
• Call the Bangkok office at 02-696-8239. www.x2resorts.com/rayong_resort
Langham Place Samui
Opened: Dec 2009
Samui is Design Hotels central (The Library, X2 Samui, Villa Beige) so it’s nice to see someone make something that’s neither tacky nor minimalist. In this case, the decor is very Asian, featuring lots of wood, tiled roofs and hand-painted walls. There are even little Chinese-style bridges over the pools/canals so that the 77 rooms form a small village. Cute, but we’re not sure if the place is as successful in terms of privacy and convenience, though. Promotion rates until Mar 2010 start from B4,250.
• 146/24 Moo 4, Lamai Beach, Maret, Koh Samui, 077-960-888. kohsamui.langhamplacehotels.com
The Hen
Opened: Oct 2009
While not particularly luxurious architecturally, The Hen’s six rooms prove that simple, tasteful vintage decoration and a beachside location can work wonders and provide precisely the kind of chill atmosphere Bangkokians seek in the royal resort town. Did we also mention super-attentive service and a wide selection of delicious local foods? Through Apr 30, 2010, rates start from B6,300.
• 31 (Samnak Diskul) Naebkhehars Rd., Hua Hin. 032-531-331. www.thehen
huahin.com
Green Gallery Hua Hin
Opened: Apr 2009
This pale-green, traditional two-story Thai style beach villa was originally the home of royalty. Now, it has been converted into an intriguing and distinctly kitsch hotel that is handily situated just a few steps from the beach. Each of the eight guest rooms has its own over-the-top theme—from girly pink frills to nautical notes. There’s not much extra in the way of facilities, though unless you count a nice garden for BBQs. Rates from B2,000.
• 3/1 Damrongrat Rd., Soi 51, Hua Hin, 032-530-487, 08-3791-0222. www.greenhuahin.com
The Lapa Hotel
Opened: Feb 2009
Another hotel with a boxy main building and contemporary Asian décor. Set on the town’s main road, close to the Hua Hin Market Village mall, it’s perfect for those who prefer to chill in the salt-water pool rather than step into the nearby sea. The 32 rooms range from the standard Island rooms to the Super Grand Island (two deluxe rooms on two floors). Rates from B4,750.
• 4/91 Soi Mooban Nongkae, Hua Hin, 032-513-222, www.thelapahotel.com
Villa Maroc
Opened: Jun 2009
Six two-story Moroccan-style blocks suround a courtyard pool while nine individual pool villas offer ultimate privacy. As you guessed from the name, the styling is pretty exotic for our shores but is a welcome break from bleak minimalism or Thai vernacular. From B11,000.
• 65/3 Moo 3, Paknampran, Pranburi, Prachuab Khirikhan, 032-630-771. www.villamarocresort.com
Outrigger Serenity Terraces
Opened: Apr 2009
A clean-cut contemporary design graces all 78 rooms and suites. Overlooking Chalong Bay, the infinity pool is located in the center of the resort and surrounded by an all-day eatery and bar, while a small pier offers a romantic spot for candlelit dinners. Rooms are from B6,600.
• 14 Moo 5, Rawai, Muang, Phuket, 076-371-900, www.outrigger.com.
What about Sin City?
Pattaya was pretty buzzing this year. Fraser Suites, Centara and Holiday Inn all opened up properties there—and a fake Madame Tussaud now provides some “clean” entertainment. We’re still not convinced the city is a hot destination for us Bangkokians, though. Maybe in 2010?
