Wet, dirty, smelly and low standards of hygiene—if you are one of those who don’t like going to the markets for one of those reasons, try Bon Marche´ (Tessaban Prachasongkhoh Rd., Phachaniwet 1, near Wat Samiennaree, www.bonmarche.co.th. Open daily 9am-7pm)

Though the name is French for “inexpensive,” the products at Bon Marche´, compared to other wet markets, aren’t as cheap as its name suggests. Browsing through its bright, clean market space, you’ll find high-quality food with high prices to match. There’s also a “lake,” an air-con shopping area, jewelry shops and spas, making Bon Marche´ the spot for hi-so ladies and their families to shop. 

Bon Market

Bon Market features tidy rows of shops, where you can find fresh produce and ready-to-eat chow from homemade kapi (shrimp paste) to rare Thai desserts. DIYers should check out the green hydroponics veggies (plants grown in water without pesticides) at Natural Life (02-953-8365, 08-1867-9877) and imported Aussie beef, as well as lamb and ostrich at Bon Beef (08-9533-7285). Prices range from B550/kilo for local T-bone cut to B1,500/kilo for Black Angus Tenderloin.

Two of the biggest shops in the market zone are Baan Maha Bundit (02-953-8537) and Plara Maha Bundit (08-1899-1687), which boast a vast selection of local and imported groceries. Expect sundried products, coffee, apple juice, snacks and more.

Those with a sweet tooth are also in for a treat as there are various delectable bakeries and dessert shops. For a refreshing delight, head to Sweet Melon (02-954-3838 ext. 0, 02-953-9010, 08-6033-1275) and try its lord chong milk (B20) and tapioca and cantaloupe in milk topped with shaved ice (B25). Nearby is Kanom Pun Sip Mae Vimol (02-954-3838, 08-6033-1275), offering deep-fried kanom pun sip (tiny curry puff with minced fish filling, B60) and sesame cookies (B40). We also like the fluffy made-on-the-spot kanom krok at Kanom Krok Da (08-9826-5475). If you like Thai desserts, Khanom Thai 9 Pi Nong (02-910-8391 ext. 0, 02-953-8065, 08-9833-8919) won’t disappoint. Our picks are the khaoniew sangkhaya served in small banana leaf cups, leum kleun (flower-shaped, bean-based dessert) and miniature thong yord. You can also take home some bread and stuffed buns (prices start at B10) at Pen Bakery (02-953-8611, 08-1285-2348).

Bon Food Court

If you want to sit down for a heartier meal, check out Bon Food Court. Choose your favorite dishes from more than 30 stalls and grab a seat at the lakeside canteen. An Geum (08-1696-2498, 08-6666-6319) whips up Vietnamese fare for the health-conscious. Naem neung (B50, B100), fresh spring rolls (B35) and grilled lemongrass pork (B40) are favorites. At Prae-Wa (08-5337-6044, 08-5998-1717), khanom jeen (B30), doused with your choice of curry, takes the spotlight. Also, don’t miss the famous khao hor bai bua (steamed rice wrapped with lotus leaf) at Ob Oun (08-1771-3658), although it usually runs out quickly. There are pork, chicken, seafood, taro with pork and vegetarian fillings. Drop by early or be disappointed.

If you feel popcorn at a theater is a rip-off, try Pochthip (08-3004-8549), where big bags of addictive popcorn are only B15 each. Beside the best-selling classic buttered version, you can also try the pandanus flavor as well. Drop by Khun Taew (08-1446-7801, 02-278-0504), and you’ll see an auntie preparing kanom beung on the spot. Unlike other stalls, the Thai-style tiny crepes here don’t have coconut cream, only sweet or sour fillings. If you prefer a cup of coffee with sandwiches, go to Jib Kafae (08-9889-6729, 08-9033-1275). Literally translated as “sipping coffee,” the parlor will cool you down with refreshments and beverages (B30-35), as well as homemade waffles and pinky-pork cookies. Be warned, though: the service can be slow when there are lots of customers, so it’s not a good place to drop by when you are starving.

Bon Restaurant

Too hot for you to sit in the open-air? Bon Marche has a range of air-con eateries in its Bon Restaurant zone. Nava Boat Noodles (08-9797-1999) serves up tasty kuay tiaw reua (B30), but you must choose whether you want the “row for you,” which is already seasoned hot and spicy, or the “paddle it yourself” version, which is milder and you can adjust the flavor to suit your taste. Chunky khaeb muu (crispy pork cracklings) is B10 more.

End the meal on a sweet note with homestyle cakes at Bow Cake (02-938-6389 ext. 5). Must-haves are the sinfully sweet chocolate fudge (B130/big slice, B150/pound) and tangy orange (B120/big slice, B140/pound). For a larger variety of sweet treats, go instead to Cinny Cinnamon (02-953-8822), and choose from cinnamon rolls along with cookies, pies, cakes and fruit punches. Prices are
B40-75.