What it’s really like at the Big Circle. Text and photos by Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul.

For most people, Wongwian Yai, located in Thonburi, on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya, is backwater Bangkok, difficult to get to and possessing nothing worth seeing. Apart from the fact that it is home to King Taksin’s equestrian statue, we were struck by how little we actually know about this forgotten neighborhood. Now that the skytrain has made the leap across the river, Wongwian Yai has never been easier to reach. BK takes advantage of the free ride (until Aug 12) to BTS Wongwian Yai to find out what’s going on around the Big Circle.

DIY Emporium

First, let’s make this clear; the Wongwian Yai BTS Station is not at Wongwian Yai. The station is almost a kilometer away from the roundabout. But you can take a shortcut through Soi Krung Thonburi 1 (right at the foot of the BTS Wongwian Yai station). A short(ish) walk will lead you to Charoen Rat Road. It is a paradise for DIY fashionistas and creative dressers on a budget looking to create their own avant-garde pieces. Small-yet-bustling, the road is lined with an unbroken string of leather traders and shops selling heaps of raw materials from look-at-me  
1. Wattanaporn P.V.C. (199-205 Charoen Rat Rd., 02-438-8537, 02-437-8733. Open Mon-Sat 8am-6pm. www.wattanaporn.com), a spacious one-stop shop with an overwhelming selection of leathers, heels and soles, metal accessories and more.

Old-fashioned Appeal

Merry King Wongwian Yai is obviously long past its prime, with a parking lot that makes it the perfect backdrop for a B-grade slasher flick. In fact, the only decent shopping center is Robinson Lat Ya. So, when in Wongwian Yai, it’s a good time to trade mall shopping for market hopping. There are a number of markets scattered in the neighborhood where you can find fresh produce and cheap eats. Planning to whip up a seafood dinner to impress your date? Make your way to 2.Ngern Wijit Market which sprawls across Somdet Phrajao Taksin and Charoen Rat roads, for some good deals on fresh water fish and live seafood.
Entering the small alleyway across the street from the Ngern Wijit Market, where the 3.Wongwian Yai Train Station stands, the air is suddenly filled with a sense of nostalgia. Along the railway line are wooden shophouses, old-fashioned barbers and salons.

The best time to go is in the early evening when the sleepy neighborhood starts to come to life as vendors set up their stalls and carts selling various yummy eats from somtam and gai yang and grilled salt-crusted fish to soy milk and yaa dong (traditional Thai liquor). From there, you can catch a train to Maha Chai in Samut Sakorn province. Thanks to our government, it’s free, well at least until July 31. Just ask for a ticket from an officer in charge at the station.

Grub Trotters

There’s no better way to round off this walking tour than with a delicious meal. And fortunately, Wongwian Yai is filled with many worthy eateries. A few months ago, 4.Kuay Tiew Nuea Wongwian Yai (Somdet Phra Jao Taksin Rd., near Orathai Bakery, 02-438-2420. Open daily 9am-4pm) moved from its former hard-to-find location to a new spot close to the roadside. But the 43-year-old stall still rolls out reliably tasty beef noodles (B30). Fragrant with Chinese herbs, the soup is so good you won’t need additional seasoning, but they do sell out, so get there early.

A few steps away from the beef noodles shop is 5.Chern Chuan Chim (Somdet Phrajao Taksin Rd., 02-437-3923. Open daily 7am-3pm). This small shophouse has been serving up hot bowls of tasty tom leuat moo (congealed pork blood and entrails in clear peppery soup, B25) for almost 30 years.

Duck fans, don’t miss 6.Charoen Pochana (124-126 Lat Ya Rd., 02-437-7343. Open daily 8am-9pm). This dim, grandpa shophouse makes up for its lack of atmosphere with its excellent duck noodles (B35-40). We love the dry version, topped with juicy slabs of roasted duck, pork wontons and savory gravy. Chinese spirits are also available.

Another must-visit spot for duck noodles is 7.Chuen Chim (218/4 Soi Intarapitak 1, 02-466-7600. Open daily 8am-5:30pm). Here, you can have your noodles either with ped palo (braised duck with Chinese herbs) or ped yang (roasted duck) for B40. Better yet, get it with shrimp wontons (B50). They use a whole shrimp. Yum!

In the same soi as Chuen Chim, you’ll find 8.Kuay Tiew Lukchin Taohuu (Open daily 1-5pm). This hidden gem is just a small noodle cart with a handful of tables. It operates only a few hours a day but still manages to draw in loyal customers thanks to the auntie’s homemade tofu balls (B25-35).

Before heading home, visit the nameless 9.banana stall in front of Star Winner video rental shop and bag some grilled bananas bathed in coconut syrup (B10 for four). Or for a more refreshing dessert, make your way to 10.Tabtim Krob Wongwian Yai (184 Lat Ya Rd., 02-4382118, 02-437-8077. Open daily 9am-9pm) where you can enjoy a bowl of tabtim krob with water chestnuts and sweetened coconut (B20) topped with shaved ice. n