Siem Reap isn’t just about the ruins anymore. By Andrew Hiransomboon, photographs by Michael Hiransomboon.

The centuries-old temples will always be the main focus, but these days Siem Reap’s appeal extends to spas, boutiques and cafes. No longer off the beaten path, the pedestrian-friendly provincial capital boasts oases of unexpected luxury as well as quaint charms from its colonial past. While backpackers are still well catered for, your credit cards are welcome at a growing number of five-star and “boutique” resorts and you can now take your pick between happy pizza one and haute cuisine.

Guide-ance

Apart from the weather (you definitely don’t want to go during the rainy season), the most important factor that can make or break your Angkor experience is your guide. Ours, Ly Sarith, is 49 but nimbly scampers up and down stone steps like he’s half his age—a goat half his age—pointing out not just the bits that are photo-friendly but exactly where to stand—or crouch—to get the best shot. “Two steps over. Crouch below that branch. And look up to your left. Isn’t that beautiful!” he beams. And then, before we can answer, he’s off to the next photo opportunity.
In addition to his photographer’s eye and infectious enthusiasm, Ly brings years of experience showing tourists around the Angkor Archaeological Park. He leads us to lesser-known approaches to some of the temples, so we only have to encounter the slow-moving, chattering tour groups as we leave.

     The iconic Angkor Wat is impressive for its scale, but we are most fascinated with Ta Phrohm and Banteay Kdei, nearby “jungle” temples that have been only partially restored. Here, towering trees look like they’ve sprouted from the sky and then branched out over the prasat (towers) and gopura (entranceways) like giant octopi smothering their prey. We are also smitten by the giant faces of Bayon, especially at sunset when the pink glow of the horizon lights up the shadowy stone carvings.

Only at Aman

The ever-smiling Ly comes to us by way of the Amansara, an immaculate 24-suite (half with their own pools) property that was once a holiday retreat for guests of King Norodum Sihanouk. Facilities and amenities at the “all-inclusive” resort include two outdoor pools, a high-ceilinged circular dining room where guests can enjoy gourmet meals plus snacks (an awesome selection of cheeses), roundtrip airport transfer in their black 1962 Mercedes limousine, and two outings per day with your own transport (jeep or “moto-romauk”—their tuk-tuk) guide and driver.
In addition to carefully selected guides, the Amansara has also produced an admirable notebook for their guests that features maps, classic black-and-white photographs, historical notes and even practical recommendations such as how early to get up depending on your sightseeing requirement. From a section on Angkor Wat: “If capturing the atmosphere of the temple first by moonlight and then inside as the sun rises, we suggest a wakeup call at 4:30am with a prompt departure at 5am…. If crowds of other travelers are of no concern then we suggest a wakeup call at 5am.”

A Long Way From Soi 11

In contrast to the Amansara’s serene elegance, the buzzy Hotel de la Paix caters to a younger clientele with a slick, nightclub-like atmosphere—not surprising since the six-year-old property was once managed by Bed Management, an offshoot of the trendsetting Bangkok hotspot. The look is contemporary pan-Asian: lots of earth tones, wood, stone and natural fibers throughout the hotel, which was built on the site of the original Hotel de la Paix. If your budget can withstand the US$650 (rack rate) hit, the 108-square-meter Duplex Spa Suites are big enough and flash enough to entertain a small party downstairs or, up a spiral iron staircase, on your rooftop terrace. But even the basic (Deluxe) rooms are comfortable and luxurious—and remember this is the hippest address in Siem Reap. Located on the town’s main North-South thoroughfare, de la Paix attracts more than its fair share of non-guests with its excellent F&B outlets, freeform swimming pool and spa, and The Arts Lounge, an exhibition space and bar.

Walk, Eat, Drink

During the dry season, it’s easy to get around Siem Reap, either on foot or by tuk-tuk. A short 10-minute walk from the Hotel de la Paix is the Old Market (Phsar Chas) area, now a tourist-friendly zone of bars, restaurants, massage shops and souvenir stores occupying colonial-style shophouses. Most are clustered around two parallel roads, “Pub Street” and “Pub Street Alley,” and these cozy pedestrian-only lanes resemble some European restaurant districts with their small outdoor tables in front of every venue. In the Old Market zone you can eat, drink, dance, play pool or catch a traditional aspara performance. At Siem Reap institutions the Temple Club (Pub Street, 015-999-909) or Angkor What? (012-490-755), you’ll have all the bases covered, plus you can do it until morning on some nights. For a less raucous evening, head to the friendly and unpretentious Khmer Kitchen (012-763-468) for traditional Cambodian flavors followed by a nightcap at the gay-friendly Linga Bar (Pub Street Alley, 012-246-912, www.lingabar.com). Across the alley from Linga is AHA, the modern restaurant/wine bar that was jointly created by Hotel de le Paix, the McDermott Gallery and the One Hotel Collection. But AHA fails to live up to the hype; a surer bet is la Paix’s signature eatery Meric.

Retail Shop

The Old Market itself is a good source of inexpensive gifts. Try spicy Cambodian coffee, tea and herbs for cooking packaged in woven “boxes” starting from as little as $0.50. Krama, the ubiquitous multi-purpose scarves, are available in a variety of colors and patterns for around US$1.50. A few steps North of the market on Pi Thnou Street is Senteurs d’Angkor (063-964-860, www.senteursdangkor.com), which has the style and commercial sensibilities of Jim Thompson but with a wider range of products that includes beautifully packaged curries and spices, candles and incense as well as the usual clothing and handicrafts. Up Pi Thnou on the opposite side, the Boom Boom Room (012-703-264, boomcambodia@yahoo.com) serves up cold drinks and cool $6 t-shirts, as well as a huge catalog of music that—copyright issues aside—they’ll download to your iPhone/iPod for a few bucks per album.

     Artisans d’Angkor (Stung Thmey Street, 012-222-404, www.artisansdangkor.com), one of many fair trade companies that offer training and marketing of craft goods, has several outlets in Siem Reap. These include shops in the smart new Siem Reap airport and at the Angkor Café across from the main entrance to Angkor Wat. The main store has the largest selection of products, plus you can catch a glimpse of craftsmen and women developing their skills in the workshops. Rajana (www.rajanacrafts.org) is a similar arts and craft association; its three Siem Reap outlets include one on Sivatha Street and another on Pub Street.

Essentials

Currency/Rates

The riel is the official currency, but more often than not prices will be listed in US dollars. US$1 = B35 / 4,100 riel

Angkor Archaeological Park passes: US$20 per day or US$40 for a three-day pass.

Getting There

Flights to Siem Reap on Bangkok Airways (1771, www.bangkokair.com) take about 1 hour, prices for economy class are B4,990 (travel through Jun 30)-11,040 (1 year validity) when booked via the website. 

     Daily boat service from Phnom Penh is $25 and the trip takes 4-5 hours. Overland by bus or minivan also takes 4-5 hours, and prices range from US$10-11.

     Visas are available on arrival ($22-24 and they’ll waive the fee if you have 2 photos). Bring dollars or pay up to 50% more in Thai baht. The 15-minute ride into town via taxi is around $5.

Where to sleep

Amansara’s (Road to Angkor, Siem Reap, (855) 63-760-333, amansara@amanresorts.com, www.amanresorts.com) fancy suites are from US$750 and pool suites from US$950. Rates are subject to mandatory board charge of US$100 per person per day, 10% service charge and 13.42% tax. This covers breakfast, lunch or dinner, house beverages and wine, two excursions per day with guide and driver, roundtrip airport transfers. Through Sept 2010.

At Hotel de la Paix (Sivutha Blvd., Siem Reap, (855) 63-966-000, www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com), a deluxe room is US$300, a deluxe suite is US$420, and a Duplex Spa Suite is US$650, exclusive of tax. During the low season, the promotion is stay 3, pay 2. Through Sep 30.

The One Hotel Angkor and Hotel Be Angkor (The Passage, Old Market Area, Siem Reap, (855) 12-755-311/63-965-321, www.theonehotelangkor.com, www.hotelbeangkor.com) are adjacent sister properties right in the heart of the Old Market zone with a total of four rooms between them. The exclusive suite at One is roughly US$250, while the three unique rooms at Be range from around US$100-150.