Shop After Dark
Shop After Dark
June 2nd, 2009six night markets for some cool browsing.
It seems you have a choice in this town stick to the air con corridors of expensive malls or brave third degree burns and dehydration hunting for cheap deals on the streets. But there is a third option, avoid the sun and the pricey brands by heading to this selection of the very best after dark bazaars.
On Nut Square
● Sukhumvit Rd., across from Lotus On Nut. BTS On Nut
This is where you: Get your Gossip Girl outfit on the way home.
Market musts: The abandoned space across from Tesco Lotus On Nut has reinvented itself as an after-work shopping arcade for streetwise city girls. The shopping journey begins on the sidewalk, as soon as you step off the skytrain station, with handmade trinkets, oversized faux-leather bags and colorful suede wallets available from the random collection of stalls. After you enter the market, head to the left and you’ll find Ad Seed (083-771-0093) and their tees (B150-350) which bear a passing resemblance to the ones found in the hip Tha Prachan. Alternatively, Passadee (084-700-3700, 081-931-6169) stocks preppy style dresses and blouses, which are great for the office and available at very affordable prices (B350-800). Deeper in, you will discover endless stands of clothes, accessories and shoes. Try the secondhand 
earrings booth (089-115-9908) next to Passadee where you can get three pairs of eccentric earrings for B50.
Market meals: There’s definitely plenty to eat here (see bkmagazine.com/feature/nut-nibbles) with everything from khao gaeng (B30) to chicken wings (B30 for 100g) available in front of the market. Or grab some sugar toast and a milk shake from Love Milk‘s (081-632-1230, www.thelovemilk.com), bright pink van.
Open: Daily 4-10pm.
Best time to go: Weekdays, 6-9pm.
Beware: The lack of roofs make this place a big no-no when it rains.
Sanam Luang
● Sanam Luang, Ratchadamnoen Nai Rd., Phra Nakorn
This is where you: Go look for bargains and eccentric finds.
Market musts: Sanam Luang was a hot spot last year when the yellow and red-shirted protestors took turns the spacious field as their gathering space. Hoping to cash in, more and more vendors set up their stalls, selling everything from cheap eats to flashlights and tents to the protestors. And thanks to the BMA recently taking control over vending space, the formerly dubious spot frequented mostly by fortunetellers, homeless and phi makham (prostitutes) is now a fun shopping destination. Lookcarefully and you might get yourself a funky secondhand toy camera for only B100 or an elaborate mah jong set for B600. There are also many stalls selling accessories and wood carvings.
Market meals: There is nothing exciting here. Just carts selling drinks and noodles. So it’s better you fill your stomach at the nearby Tha Prachan before you shop.
Open: Daily from around 7pm onwards.
Best time to go: Around 9pm when all the vendors already set up their stalls.
Beware: Though it’s now brighter and better, ladies, do bring a big, strong friend along with you. Some areas are still dark and shadowy.
Ratchada Night Market
● Ratchada-Ladprao intersection, Ratchadapisek Rd., between
MRT Ladprao and MRT Ratchadapisek
This is where you: Buy that original Vespa and the authentic mod shirt to match. It’s vintage but without the hassle of Klong Thom.
Market Musts: Originally a place to buy and sell vintage cars, motorcycles and their spare parts, it’s now known as a haven for fans of vintage bric a brac in all shapes and forms. The open-air market spreads out in three rows of randomly arranged stalls, stretching from MRT Ladprao to MRT Ratchadapisek. The outer row closest to Ratchadapisek Road is still mostly dedicated to petrol heads with countless stalls selling vintage motorbike and car spare parts, but you’ll also find plenty of old school furniture. Vintage clothes and accessories take up most of the middle row and old collectibles, such as old banknotes, radio transmitters and the toys you used to play with as a kid are laid out on the ground in the inner row. Aside from browsing through the contents of other people’s wardrobes you can also find some new stuff, including 
(B159 each, 085-676-4804) or check out Bangkok Retro (089-477-2988), which sells 50s-80s decorative items and furniture in colorful tones (from B1,000). Reports are that the market is proving so popular that it has expanded to Friday and Sunday nights, too, though on a slightly smaller scale.
Market meals: Even though most of the food is near MRT Ladprao, there are plenty of small food and drink stands scattered throughout. At the MRT Ratchadapisek end of the market, you’ll also find a chilled out bar under a tree where people enjoy beers, cocktails and good live music.
Open: Fri-Sun, 6:30pm-2pm
Best time to go: Saturday 8-10pm
Beware: Don’t go if it rains as this place quickly turns into a muddy bog.
Klong Thom
● A square area between Sieuh Pah, Worachak, Charoen Krung and Luang Roads, Pomprab Sattrupai Roads
This is where you: Go digging through piles of useless rubbish to uncover hidden gems.
Market Musts: When it comes to night markets, Klong Thom is the big daddy of the bunch. It’s huge, covering an area in the old town that stretches between Sieuh Pah, Worachak, Charoen Krung and Luang roads. Every tiny alley and walkway is packed with people selling what, at first glance, looks like mountains of rubbish. On closer inspection, these turn out to be secondhand mobile phones, toys, DVDs, computer games and even clothes. It takes some hunting but it is possible to find some hidden (and even a few brand new) gems such as a waterproof backpack (B160), 
Market Meals: If you still have the energy, don’t worry about grabbing a bite in the market—head to Yaowarat, located 10 minutes away, for a much better selection of food. For example, kuay chab nai lek and khao tom kradook muu (Soi Charoen Krung 16), and Hong Kong noodles (Soi Talad Kao, Yaowarat Rd.) are really good. End your night with hot-milk ginko beans from the stall near Hong Kong noodles.
Open: Weekends. The first shift runs from 5pm on Saturday to 2am on Sunday; the second shift goes from Sunday 2am until the early morning.
Best time to go: 10:30pm-1am.
Beware: Pickpockets and the distinct possibility of not really seeing what you’re buying. It’s dark out there.
Siam Square
● In front of Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam
This is where you: The stuff of Siam Square by day but at Union Mall prices.
Market Musts: This night market has become renowned for cool products at bargain prices. Stretching from the front of Bangkok Bank to the front of Lido Theater, over 50 stands sell the kind of fashion items you would expect from Siam Square. Think oversized totes, beaded clutches, checked shirts, vivid hue tank tops, glittering accessories and secondhand shoes imported from both Hong Kong and South Korea. As they pay little rent, the items are cheaper than shops in Siam Square and Bonanza. But be careful with color and size as you have limited opportunities to try things on and limited light to see them clearly. Vendors do change so if you like something, buy it because you may not have another chance.
Market Meals: Even though there are numerous yummy food outlets most of them close their kitchens at 9-9:30pm. Still, there’re some places left open. Try To-Sit (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4001), Hard Rock Café (Siam Square Soi 11, 02-658-4090/-3), and Marina HK (Siam Square Soi 1, 02-251-1968).
Open: Tue-Sun, 9pm-midnight.
Best time to go: 9:30-11pm.
Beware: It’s jam-packed and sweaty. And there’s not enough light to see the true colors—be careful.
Suanlum Night Bazaar
● Rama 4 Rd. MRT Lumpini
This is where you: Catch up on new trends from not-yet-famous young designers, Asian-inspired decorative items and rare vintage clothes and bags.
Market musts: Perhaps the best known night market of them all, it’s been embroiled in rumors of closures for as long as we can remember. The latest is it’s set to become the first open-air Central Store, but for now it’s business as usual for the one market that can appeal to both Thais and tourists. A sign that nothing is changing soon is the fact that stylish new stores keep appearing all the time especially in the Lopburi Zone (a zone directly in front of you when you get off the MRT station), which is really the only place you want to head, unless you’re into knock off bags and cheap souvenirs.
Among the new faces are Soliloquy (Lopburi Soi 3, 
Market meals: When you get hungry, just head to the huge central food court for some cheap noodles, a tower of beer and some entertainment courtesy of the dodgy karaoke inspired dancers.
Open: Daily 5pm-midnight
Best time to go: 8-10pm
Beware: Pickpockets.
Get Equipped
How to cope with a nighttime expedition.
1. Rain Cape
Not as stylish as an umbrella, but it gives you greater maneuverability to dash through the crowds. B29 from 7-Eleven.
2. Rubber Boots
Keep your feet good and dry with some rubber footwear. B129 from Tesco Lotus. Try Rama 4 outlet, Klongtoey, 02-672-8585/-90.
3. Socks
Put something between you and the used leather when trying on secondhand shoes. B59 from a street stall on Silom Road.
4. Torch
Night markets are dark places. So take along a torch if you want to see what you’re buying. B60 from Daiso. Try 2/F, Thaniya Plaza, Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd 02-632-6671.
5. Big Tote
Try not to kill dolphins and the planet and go for the greener option of a big tote bag. B69 from Tesco Lotus .
BK asks: What’s the worst thing you’ve bought from a night market?
Sorrathanyathorn, 18, student
A shirt that, the next day, looked disappointedly different from when I tried on at the stall.
Chattip, 37, Housewife
I’ve bought sunglasses from the nightmarket many times—they are cheap and pretty, but easily broken.
Phonkrit, 25, landscape architect
I once bought this outfit without trying because the seller didn’t let me. When I got home and tried it on, it turned out that it didn’t fit me at all.
Sutthiluk, 22, Sales & Marketing Executive
I bought a shirt because the seller said it looked gorgeous. I found out later that it was actually damaged which I didn’t see because it was too dark.
