Nakhorn Si Thammarat: sleepy, spiritual but full of surprises.
By Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul and Sonia Boonchanasukit

Often overshadowed by the neighboring Samui islands, Nakhon Si Thammarat is rarely on travelers’ radar… except maybe for Jatukham amulet collectors. Which is unfortunate, since this seemingly sleepy beach destination packs in more activities and adventures than you would expect.

Cultural Exchange

Formerly named Tambralinga and Ligor, Nakorn Si Thammarat has a rich history, dating back for over 1,500 years, as a predominantly Buddhist community—hence the string of ancient temples scattered around the city. Start your trip at Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan on Ratchadamnoen Road. The revered temple is home to Phra Borom That Chedi, the Sri Lankan-style pagoda which houses relics of Buddha. It’s also known as “the shadowless pagoda” because, believe it or not, it never casts a shadow. The locals believe that if a shadow was spotted, it would be a terrible omen for the city. Also on Ratchadamnoen Road is Wat Wang Tawantok. In 1993, this morgue-turned-park-turned-temple was given the Architectural Conservation Award from the Association of Siamese Architects. Here, you will find exquisite wooden traditional houses on stilts, which used to serve as the monks’ residence.

While in town, pay national artist Suchart Subsin a visit at Baan Nang Thalung Suchart Subsin (10/18 Si Thammasok Soi 3, 075-346-394. Open daily 8am-5pm). The puppet master opens up his home to the public with his house-cum-museum showcasing a variety of nung thalung (shadow puppets) from around the world. The entrance is free, but we highly recommend you pay the B50 for a spectacular 20-minute show.
Still craving for more history? Make your way to the City Museum (Suan Sondej Pra Sri Nakarin 84, Tung Tha Lad, 075-358-261. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm. www.nakhonmuseum.com), the spacious complex, consisting of four buildings, is dedicated to the history of Nakorn Si Thammarat.

Out of Town

Once you’re done with culture, it’s time for some down time. Nakorn Si Thammarat Province has the longest coastline in the country (225 kilometers), so hit the pristine sand. You’ll find multiple beaches for you to kick off those heels and sunbathe under the clear blue Southern sky. The turquoise sea is also ideal for a quick swim or even a snorkel. A smooth (roughly 90km) drive from the airport is the tiny town of Khanom. The road through the town also leads up to a hill chockfull of 3 to 5-star resorts (see Essentials page 25). The opposite direction leads to natural attractions like the fishermen’s village, waterfalls and the pier where you can hire a boat to try and catch a glimpse of what the town is famous for: pink dolphins.
About a 20-minute drive from the Khanom city center is the Laem Pra Thap Pier, in Ao Thong Nian. With cameras at the ready, head straight for a long-tail boat, which usually seats between two to four plus two crew. The tour takes in various sites like Khao Phab Pha, the layered limestone formation and the island which houses a large statue of Luang Phu Thuad, a prominent Buddhist monk who supposedly turned sea water into fresh water. Just don’t be surprised if you’re out for a good hour before you spot the pink dolphins, which usually travel in groups of 7-10. We suggest you leave your cameras on video mode, because they only surface for a few seconds before they dive again. The whole trip will cost you B600 per person. Contact Baan Laem Pra Thap Ecotourism Group (08-7282-7761. http://thongnian.com).

Natural Wonders

If you like water but only from the vantage point of dry land, then head to Khao Luang National Park (Tambon Khao Kaew, Amphur Lan Ska, 075-391-240, 075-391-218). As its name suggests, the evergreen forest is home to the highest mountain in the South, Khao Luang, as well as rare fern trees, plants and exotic birds. There are also many waterfalls for you to explore and enjoy, with Krung Ching and Karom waterfalls being the most dramatic.
Not too far away from the national park is Kiriwong Village (Tambon Kamlone, Amphur Lanska, 075-533-113). Surrounded by mountains, this serene sustainable community is known as an eco-tourism destination. You can spend a few days with the villagers at the homestay and learn more about the farming and handmade handicrafts. A trekking trip can also be arranged.

Fresh Eats

A few days in Nakhon Sri Thammarat and you’ll soon realize that the locals dine on two things: morning dim sum and afternoon kanom jeen. Directly opposite Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan on Ratchadamnoen Road, you’ll find tiny, old-fashioned shop houses where dumplings are served alongside hot Chinese tea. As soon as you seat yourself on a wobbly wooden chair, you’ll be approached by the staff with trays of bite-sized goodies from ha gao to kanom jeep and salapao (B10-15/dish). Not far from the Baan Nang Talung museum is a famous open-air, cafeteria-cum-restaurant called Khanom Jeen Panyom (22 Panyom Rd., 075-342-615). Choose from four varieties of curries to go with your kanom jeen (B25), including the naam ya, naam ya pa (medium hot), naam prik (sweet and peanuty) and kaeng tai pla (super hot fish kidney soup). But you can also have noodles with chicken green curry if you like. In fact, for non-noodle fans, there are plenty of khao kaeng options (B35) and pork satay (B40/10 sticks) on offer. For dessert, try a local specialty: mankhoot khad (petite mangosteens on sticks, B20).
If seafood is what you crave, then head straight to Khrua Tangke (81/2 M.1 Thong Nien, Khanom, 075-258-868. Open daily 11am-10pm). At this resort-cum-restaurant the seafood is fresh, the portions are massive and the prices reasonable. Try the steamed squid with spicy lemon sauce (B150) coupled with deep fried amberjack fish and mango salad (B150).
However, for the true beach experience, make your way to the beachside Khiang Talay (Thong Nian Beach, 089-875-4865, 087-273-0523). Choose from park benches or personal straw huts as the friendly owner rattles off a list of fresh seafood treats. A must-try is the deep fried soft shell crab, which oozes with garlic. Complement the fried and salty dish with fish tom yam and grilled shrimp served with a sweet, sour and spicy seafood sauce. Prices are between B120-150.

Essentials

Where to Stay

Racha Kiri Resort & Spa (99, Moo 8, Nai Plao Beach, Nai Plao-Thong Yea Rd., Khanom, 075-527-847. www.rachakiri.com) might be one of the furthest from the city center but that also means it’s secluded and has breath-taking views. You also get an enticing pool and a private beach area. Rates start at B7,000 a night for a Mini Suite up to B18,500 for a Grand Suite. Book online and you get almost 50% off.
For something a little homier, try the Khanom Hill Resort (60/1 Moo 8, Khanom, 08-1956-3101. www.khanom.de), a small 15-unit boutique resort divided into private houses and bungalows with a long stretch of the Nai Plao Beach just across the street. Rates range from B2,800 a night, inclusive of breakfast for two.
If you prefer to stay in town, then book a room at Twin Lotus (97/8, Pattanakarn-kukwang Rd., Muang, 075-323-777. www.twinlotushotel.net). The 408-room hotel is equipped with standard amenities. Through the end of the year, the hotel offers a special rate at B600 a night for a standard double room.

How To Get There

The fastest and easiest way is to fly. Nok Air (1318. www.nokair.com) has two daily flights to Nakhon Si Thammarat Airport.
You can also take an air-con 24-seater bus from the Southern Bus Terminal on Boromaratchachonnani Rd.For more info, call 02-422-4444 or visit www.transport.co.th.
Or, take the train. You can now book a ticket online at www.railway.co.th or call the hotline 1690. Prices are B688 for a regular 2nd class sleeper to B1,972 for a 1st class cabin.