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White Thais

We test the best of three local vineyards.

By
12 March, 2010 Bangkok time

With Thai wineries gaining more attention (and awards) at home and abroad, we thought it was high time we tested them out. And given the hot weather lately, we went with chilled whites. GranMonte, PB Valley and Siam Winery sent us two of what they felt were their best, and we put them to the blind taste test. While none of us are trained wine critics, in a relatively new industry, there’s something to be said for the opinions of the relatively uinitiated.

Sole Unwooded Chenin Blanc 2009 (GranMonte)

B690/bottle
We say: The color is so light, it looks almost watery. The smell is also not very strong, but a bit acidic. The taste though was slightly sour, in fact too sour for most of us.
They say: “This wine is fruity and complex, yet smooth on the palate.”

Spring Chenin Blanc 2009 (GranMonte)

B640/bottle
We say:
Also very light in color, though a bit darker than the Sole. The taste is a bit more flowery, even fruity, with a hint of maybe apple. It did leave a not-unpleasant fizzy feeling on the tongue.
They say: “This Chenin Blanc has spirtzy acidity and nose of lychee, guava and lime. It has a touch of sweetness to make this wine a pleasant drink with a refreshing finish.

Pirom Khao Yai Reserve Chenin Blanc 2008 (PB Valley)

B1,500/bottle
We say:
A lot stronger in color and bouquet than the previous two. It smelled almost mossy, or like a milk cheese. The taste is slightly bitter, faintly clove-like. Some said it was medicinal; others liked the woody and earthy taste.
They say: “This is a light-bodied wine with delicate floral, tropical fruit, and a good acid backbone.”

PB Khao Yai Reserve Chenin Blanc 2008 (PB Valley)

B700/bottle
We say:
Smells like a yeashy beer, or strong cheese. The fruity notes couldn’t overcome the sourness.
They say: “A straw yellow, light-bodied, dry style wine balanced with mellow acid together with a bouquet of tropical fruit, pineapple, citrus, honey, and lightly smoked, which resulted from being partly aged in French oak barrels.”

Monsoon Valley Colombard 2009 (Siam Winery)

B600/bottle

We say: A strong color with some orange hues. We thought it smelled wonderfully like caramel. It also has that fizzy feeling, but is still nice and light. Overall it’s the office hit—very pleasant and drinkable.
They say: “Bright yellow color with light green hues; passion fruit, peach, honeysuckle, mineral, fruity and aromatic; elegant acidity, crisp and refreshing, good mouth feel with long finish.

Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam 2009 (Siam Winery)

B1,500/bottle
(coming in Apr)

We say: The darkest color of them all, this wine smells like wood and maybe even vanilla. The taste is slightly bitter, more acidic than the MV Colombard and very aromatic, like drinking a cross between nectar and perfume—in a good way.
They say: “Intense yellow; white Pepper, vanilla, peaches, dry fruits, intensely aromatic; rich and with good mouth feel, firm acidity, long finish, smooth”

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