Who says khao tom shops have to be old Chinese shophouses, with ah-ma serving the bowls of boiled rice? A new generation of khao tom eateries has surfaced in the middle of Soi 33, offering familiar tastes to a fresh crowd. New Srifa is actually just an updated reincarnation of the same old Srifa that used to be your mothers’ favorite joint. For over 50 years, Srifa has moved around a lot, from the old town Wong Wien to Saladaeng to swanky Sukhumvit before ending up in Soi 33, and is now run by the fourth generation of a khao tom-making family.

New Srifa 33 elicits a sigh of relief. After passing the ladies in front of neon lights on the soi, plop down when you get there at one of the shop’s giant white tables and relax. Forget your preconception of a khao tom shack, this one is brightly lit with a lot of spaces and large tables to accommodate modern diners. The new address is already a favorite among old-timers as well as local farangs.

The menu is as heavy as the bowls of boiled rice themselves. The gub can range from simple pickled lettuce (B60) and fried sweet sliced pork (B80) to the elaborate spicy steamed sea bass (B350). The portions are generous, too, so don’t over order. Their “must try” items include minced pork with black olives (B80), and if you want to order the house special, which is deep-fried crab dumpling (B150 for a small dish), order it right away as they make it from scratch.

It’s easy to be startled by their textbook-thick menu. So, if you want to try their best dishes, follow the advice from the colored menu pages. Also, the parking is terrible around this area, so if you don’t mind a little bit of a walk, take advantage of the parking lot at the UBC II building and get your ticket stamped.

(Open Door, BK#208, Oct 26-Nov 1, 2007)

New Srifa 33’s moo pad namlieb (B80, stir-fried minced pork with salted Chinese black olives), bateng (B80, sweetened diced pork) and pad pak kra ched (B100) are so good, we believe they can elevate a one-night-stand khaotom meal into a date, and hence a relationship.

(BK#221, 100 Things to Eat Before You Die, Jan 25-31, 2008)