For die-hard carnivores who are trying to take it easy on the meat, Tham Na offers a pleasant surprise—tofu-based dishes which are actually yummy. For vegetarians, it’s a little gem in a city that offers little in that department. This roadside shophouse is modestly decorated with only five small tables loosely spaced against rustic brick walls and a kitchen right next to the dining area. So be prepared to leave smelling like the food. Don’t expect to see sun-dried “pork” or deep-fried “sausages” on the menu. Tham Na doesn’t try to fool you with mock meat variations. Instead, it makes sure you can enjoy a meatless meal that’s prepared using tofu and mushrooms as the core ingredients. The menu includes a selection of breakfast sets (B70-100 served with soy milk or juice) and sandwiches (B90-115) but we prefer Tham Na’s comforting, homespun Thai fare. Moist and juicy, the grilled mushroom balls (B80) topped with crushed cashew nuts and tamarind sauce are better than the pork balls you’ll find at a lot of places. The pomelo salad (B80) gets a presentation twist as it is served with a basket of crispy wonton sheets while the tofu pockets stuffed with the mildly pungent larb barley rice is a steal at B100. It’s not all plain sailing and there are some minor gripes—the tom yum (B95) could do with more punch and the accompanying tamarind sauce with the deep-fried angel mushrooms (B80) is a tad too sweet. But we are more than willing to overlook some missteps because of the affable service. Iced water is also free. Another point goes to the brown rice, which can be tricky to cook. You usually end up with either thick and dry rice or a gummy mess. But here, it’s plump and fluffy. Note that beer (B60) and house wine (B130/glass) are the only alcohol options but you can always continue the night by drinking at one of the nearby bars. Here, it’s safe to say that you’ll be satisfyingly full after a tasty meat-free feast.