Sanam Pao’s decrepit shop-houses seem like unlikely candidates for gentrification, but Older is now serving serving Negronis and fusion food just beneath the BTS station.

In warm decor that combines gentlemen’s club accents and the place’s crumbling concrete backbone, Salt’s original chef is back in town (Site, in Bangna, is closed) doing sun-dried kurobuta pork (B180), Thai-style salmon pate (B280) and pasta with cod roe (B280).

Given the nightly live band, the place looks more suited to whiskey (B2,200 for JW Black) and soda than classic cocktails, but they can definitely mix a Vieux Carre or a Boulevardier (B280).