The buzz: Surawong Road’s new Marriott hotel is banking on the talents of a young, local chef, Attapol “X” Naito Thangthong, to boost their Praya kitchen all-day dining restaurant into a hub of forgotten Thai recipes. 

The decor: You’d be forgiven for thinking the well-worn, wooden Thai art motifs that take up entire walls were the genuine article. In fact, they’re recreations taken from temple murals, but still lend the vast open space a genuine sense of occasion. It’s all comfortable and relaxed,  with friendly staff and easy-flowing music on in the background. A vast open-kitchen shows off the cooking preparation.

The food: Chef X goes in for both ancient old family recipes—taken, he says, from his grandmother’s cooking—as well as more recent-but-forgotten kitsch classics. Take, for example, the Gai Ob Phu Kao Fai, or “Chicken Volcano” (B298). This whole spit-roast chicken gets doused in Mekhong whiskey and set alight tableside in a display that’ll be familiar to anyone who remembers Thai fine dining of yesteryear. Also on the menu is a crabmeat-loaded Southern tumeric curry (B258)—rich, creamy and perfect with a plate of jasmine rice—and beef-shank massaman curry (B238). The golden-fried oyster fritters dipped in chili sauce (B158) are another good shout. The hotel buffet costs B750 for lunch and B950 for dinner, or B1,200 on seafood buffet nights (Thu-Sun). 

The drinks: Cocktails make the most of tropical Thai fruits. The Asia Pacific Cooler (B325) sees vodka mixed with lychee liqueur, lychee puree and jasmine water. The Pa-N Da-N (B305) combines silver cachaca flavors of coconut, pineapple and honey. Bottled beers will set you back B125 while wine by the glass starts from 280.

Why we’d go back: Because we didn’t get to try the seafood buffet night, which promises lobsters, sea crabs, river prawns and Hokkaido scallops for your B1,200. Kankanok Wichiantanon