The elegance of the decor and the sweeping views of the Chao Praya are reason alone to visit, but this refined Cantonese restaurant's bustling open kitchen delivers, too. The best deal is the all-you-can-eat dim sum lunch, which comes with such delicacies as snow fish stuffed with shrimps (B150 a la carte), steamed crab legs (B150), and deep-fried creamy custard buns (B80). On top of the dim sum, you'll get to sample delicious soups and meats, such as the roasted duck.

Service is partlcularly impressive. That's one area where standalones struggle to keep up with five-star riverside hotels. If you're seated close to the kitchen, be warned that the loud hiss of the burners under the woks can get a bit annoying, though. It slightly ruins the serenity of the river views and attentive service.

On the food front, Yuan is really solid, but it would take more for it to stand appart from the legions of Cantonese restaurants in town. The fried scallops drizzled with mayo and served on top a sparse bed of cabbage and carrot shavings--a signature dish--are more Marina HK (a pretty grotty place in Siam) than Hong Kong's Michelin-starred Lung King Heen. The roast pork, also a signature dish, is another serious disappointment--too dry, too bland. Stick to the duck, which is done just right. We'd also recommend the wonderfully crip jellyfish, the bouncy steamed prown dumplings and the spicy, hot and sour soup with chicken.

The desserts, too, are a pleasant surprise whether it's the fresh mango pudding or the much more classic sesame dumplings in ginger syrup. Evenings are a la carte only, a good time to get Peking duck (B1,600) since it's not part of the lunch deal. At B999 net (inclusive of tea and chrysanthemum tea, B1,200 net on Sat-Sun) the midday deal is hard to beat, though: lost of good food, impeccable service and stunning views.