Khong Jiam consists of one main street with a post office and a bank, and two restaurants by the river. Just about everything else within an 80km radius is jungle and villages. Not many Bangkokians have made it to the place (yet) and foreign tourists are pretty rare. When they do arrive, though, they’re going to love it. The small town is surrounded on every side by mountainous cliffs overlooking the Mekong, crystal-clear waterfalls and brooks running through fields of wild flowers. That’s also why you need to visit right now: while the waterfalls are still gushing and the vegetation is still green from this year’s freaky rainy season. Here are the highlights you can’t afford to miss.

Soi Sawan WATERFALL

This waterfall is the region’s most impressive as it falls from ledge to ledge from the top of a plateau deep into a creek. You can climb all the way up, where you’ll find one of the region’s most beautiful displays of blossoming wild flowers. Again, try to make it in November or early December when they are in full bloom.

Pha Taem National Park

A trail starts at the visitor center and runs at the foot of a sheer cliff of layered, multi-colored stone, halfway down to the Mekong. Water trickles from the top of the cliff onto little wild flowers at its foot and its walls are painted with prehistoric depictions of animals, humans and simple hand outlines. Pha Taem also features some dramatic rock formations, Sao Chaliang, where giant boulders are perched atop stone columns. (This is one of the rare spots with a restaurant, so grab lunch here.)

Saeng Chan Waterfall

This waterfall drops through a hole in a stone ledge some 10 meters above. You can comfortably swim in the little pool at the base of this “ray of moonlight” (which is what “saeng chan” means). Shortly after noon, the sun shines through the water for even greater effect.

Pha Chana Dai

This is a slightly longer drive from town (about 70km) and you won’t get to the actual cliff without an additional 15km drive in a 4x4. The pay-off? One of the most striking views to be had in Isaan and the chance to witness where the sun first rises in Thailand. (By the way, the sun first sets in Pha Taem which is slightly less exciting but also a lot less demanding.) On the way, you can stop and wander into the countryside to see more streams and wild flowers on the rocky plateau.

Essentials

You will need a car, for sure. Thai Rent-A-Car will wait for you at the airport with a little welcome sign, and hand over the car right there and then in the airport’s parking lot—totally hassle free. Their nearest location is in Khon Kaen so call them to arrange this: 02-737-8888. A Toyota Vios, for example, is B1,605 (USD53)/day. www.thairentacar.com

Sleeping

High-end: Book yourself a really swanky retreat by taking out a whole villa (starting from B12,500 / USD414) at Sedhapura (045-351-174, www.sedhapura.com). A sister property of Tohsang, their views of the river are awesome, thanks to the infinity pools surrounding little loungey islands. In the villas, you’ll find a mezzanine, sunken tub, open-air bathrooms, hardwood furnishings and massive beds.  Who said Isaan couldn’t be luxe?
Mid-range: Tohsang Khong Jiam Resort (045-351-174, www.tohsang.com) is right on the river, offering superb views and very natural surroundings. The rooms (starting from B2,354 / USD78) all have views, too and (see Dining) we really liked the F&B—kai krata for breakfast has got to be the best way to start the day. Rooms are clean, simple and cozy.
Budget: Mongkhon (045-351-352, www.mongkhon.com) offers basic rooms in wooden houses, right in town, for B500 (USD16) a night. They also have an internet café for B20 (USD0.60)/hour if you absolutely need to upload those pics to Facebook.

Dining

Khong Jiam has two restaurants. The one proudly boasting the late chef/prime minister’s recommendation (yes, we mean Samak’s cooking show) has long been deserted by locals who prefer the next door, Rim Kong. They do good river fish, such as plaa kang pad cha. And even if you stay in a cheap guesthouse, we strongly recommend you try dining at Thosang, which is also by the river, reasonably priced (for a hotel) and has some very nice local specialties.