Club: Muang Thong

Stadium: SCG
Website: www.mtutd.tv
Capacity: 18,000
The plans: Following the arrival of new sponsors, the venue out at Impact Arena has just changed names from the Yamaha to SCG stadium. The close season saw the club improve the pitch and the VIP rooms as well as add 2,000 seats to the main stand. Despite rumors of plans to relocate, it seems that the new focus is to stay put and renovate the existing ground further.

Club: TOT SC

Stadium: Chaeng Wattana Stadium, Lak Si
Website: www.tot-catfc.com
Capacity: 15,000
The plans: They finally moved to this new purpose-built stadium in July 2011, only to have to move out again due to the floods. They are now firmly at home and spent the close season giving the stadium a new coat of paint and also plan to upgrade the scoreboard soon.

Club: Bangkok Glass

Stadium: Leo Stadium, Pathum Thani
Website: www.bangkokglassfc.com
Capacity: 10,000
The plans: The club are currently looking to increase their stadium capacity from 10,000 to 12,600 by renovating a main stand. They have also looked to improve the overall facilities to make sure they meet the Asian Football Confederation standards so that they can enter the AFC cup competitions, if they manage to qualify this year.

Club: Insee Police United

Stadium: Thammasat Stadium, Rangsit, Pathum Thani
Website: www.pufc.co.th
Capacity: 20,000
The plans: Their stadium was badly inundated during the floods last year forcing them to play home games at Chonburi Institute of Physical Education. However, as part of the now completed renovation and repair work, Thammasat University upgraded the stadium facilities with improvements to the press room, VIP areas and the main pitch.

Club: BEC Tero Sasana

Stadium: Thephasadin Stadium, Pathumwan
Website: www.becterosasana.in.th
Capacity: 15,000
The plans: They only moved to their downtown location two seasons ago but it is an ongoing dream of Chairman Brian Marcar to find their own purpose-built stadium. According to their manager, Thanya Wongnak, they are still actively searching for a more permanent home, though they haven’t found the ideal location yet.

Club: Thai Port

Stadium: PAT Stadium.
Website: www.thaiportfc.com
Capacity: 12,000
The plans: The stadium at Thai Port has been an ongoing source of problems for the club. Issues with their substandard floodlights have forced them to kick off at 4pm rather than 6pm (the official kick off time for TPL games), leading to a warning from the TPL authorities. If they don’t get them fixed, then they could be forced to play games at another stadium for the second half of the season. The main issue is that the Port Authority of Thailand own the land and the stadium, which is then rented by the club’s owners. That means it’s down to PAT to make the changes, something they have repeatedly promised but failed to do over the past few seasons.

Somtum Der

The buzz: This project was spearheaded by a partner of Minibar Royale, whose family also owns Suppanniga, a charming boutique hotel in Khon Kaen. Now, he’s bringing his Isaan roots to Bangkok in the shape of this somtam-focused restaurant. The objective is to steer our taste buds back towards Northern Isaan, and away from the sweeter flavors that Bangkokians so cherish.
The décor: Somtum Der belies its basic shophouse shell. It’s got a little mezzanine which lets in plenty of light, ably supported by the white walls and blonde wood. A red accent wall, the central somtam bar and craft-inspired bamboo lamps add a bit of warmth and Isaan flavor to the mix.
The food: Chef Kornthanut Thongnum, although originally from the North, lived eight years in Sakon Nakhon, which is way up there, just beneath Nong Khai. He says the somtam pla ra there is not sweet at all, and that he’s trying to win Bangkokians over to this flavor. (His only compromise is to pasteurize the pla ra for our weak stomachs.) Of the score of varieties available, standouts include his tam sua Sakon Nakhon (B65), which comes with freshwater crab and kratin beans, and the tam pla tu khao man (B85), which comes with mackerel and is served with a side of rice cooked in coconut milk. And of course, there’s a long list of usual suspects, from laabs to tom saep.
The drinks: Beerlao dark should be coming in soon, but we’re particularly excited by their martinis (B99). Made by infusing vodka with lemongrass or roselle, they pack quite a punch and remain fairly dry.
The crowd: Lunch sees expats and executives who don’t mind paying extra for somtam with air-con, while dinner draws a mixed crowd including some boys headed to Silom Soi 2.
5/5 Saladaeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-10pm.

Noreste

The buzz: Another wine bar, you moan. But wait, this one isn’t doing the usual Italian fusion thing. Instead, it’s all about pairing wines with Isaan cuisine, a notoriously difficult entreprise.
The décor: Located on the second floor of a blue house in community mall Nawamin Festival Walk, Noreste is decorated with bird cages, old-school tiles and French windows, which combine to create a European country house atmosphere. There’s also a deck where you can smoke shisha with flavors like apple, grape and mint (B400).
The food: Here too, the owner promises to bring full-on Isaan flavors. You can start by trying the chicken wings stuffed with laab (B150), or opt for some popular dishes like somtam kai kem pla duk foo (papaya salad with salted egg and deep-fried catfish, B160), laab salmon (salmon in herbal sauce, B320) and grilled lamb (B450). They even have jim joom (Isaan hotpot, B480), just like on the street, but with Ko Khun beef (a renowned beef from Isaan).
The drinks: Over 40 labels of red, white and sparkling (mostly Italian wines) starting from B650 while classic cocktails are B180.
The crowd: Shoppers, couples on dates and trendy families.
Room J201-202, 2/F, Nawamin Festival Walk, Kasetnawamin Rd., 02-907-0858. Open daily 4pm-2am.

Café Chilli Zaap

The buzz: Owned by the familiar faces from Blue Velvet, Extra Virgin and Surface, Café Chili Zaap might remind you of Café Chili in Siam Paragon, but they promise this place will not make the same compromise on fiery flavors for the hi-so crowd.
The décor: With a grey palette, an illustrated monochrome wall and modern furniture, this Café Chilli is a far cry from the jungly vibe of the Paragon branch. It’s almost like they were going for a Greyhound look then threw in the textured walls, wicker lamps and rivets lining the furniture to remind us of their upcountry menu.
The food: A range of classics like gaeng lao hed tob (earth star mushroom in Northeastern soup, B150) and tam sua (papaya salad mixed with rice vermicelli and bean sprouts, B95) is complemented by some Isaan-style fusion like the soup noh mai (spicy bamboo shoot salad, B180) topped with grilled salmon or the recommended spaghetti with Isaan style sausage (B150).
The drinks: Herbal drinks like roselle juice (B75) and lemongrass juice (B75). But if you’re ready for booze in a mall, they also have classic cocktails (B140-B180). Beers are Heineken (B110) and Singha (95).
The crowd: It’s in a mall, so mostly Thai families and couples.
1/F, Central Ladprao, 1691/1 Paholyothin Rd., 02-541-1485. www.cafechilli.com. Open daily 10am-10pm.

Thai Lao Yeh

The buzz: The former owner of boutique hotel Eugenia sold up, and moved along Sukhumvit to the same small dead-end soi that is home to Casa Pagoda and the soon-to-open Quince. There, this interior designer created a purpose-built colonial-style hotel, with more than a touch of the English country house about it. Despite these design themes, the restaurant is resolutely Thai, focusing on dishes you’re more likely to find at a roadside stall than an elegant boutique hotel.
The décor: A blend of Thai mixed with a touch of 1920s Shanghai. That means wooden walls taken from an original Thai house combined with tiled floors, marble top tables, lots of dark wood and plenty of antique bric a brac and furniture. There is also an Edwardian-style private drawing room for intimate dinner parties.
The food: No fusion, no added sugar and no holding back on the spices, just an extensive menu of classic and authentic Isaan, Northern and Laotian dishes, with the occasional Southern offering as well. Recommended dishes include the gai yang takrai, (deep fried chicken wings with lemongrass, B120), the fresh and aromatic laab Laos (B150), and the kow pad Thai Lao Yeh (B180) that mixes seafood, pork and more with the fried rice. There are also plenty of harder to find Northeastern treats like kob tod (deep fried frog, B160) and gaeng pak wan kai-mod-daeng (spicy soup with ants eggs, B160).
The drinks: The presence of the Joy Luck Club bar in the hotel means you can enjoy cocktails mixed by bar staff dressed in 1920s style outfits, who have previously worked at Zuma and Hyde & Seek. The seasonal signature cocktail is currently the Star Ruby (B280), vodka, roselle, amaretto, and mangosteen.
The crowd: Hotel guests and a growing number of inquisitive well of locals coming to check out the new arrival to this increasingly happening foodie neighborhood.
14/29, Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm.

BK: How did you learn to cook?
I read a lot of cookbooks and I used to be a waiter in a big restaurant where I learned bits and pieces from the chef. Back then I had to eat out a lot, so I had the chance to try many variations of the same dishes which helped me when I became a cook.

BK: What is the hardest food for you to cook?
That would be kanom jeen nam prik (rice vermicelli served with curry) because of its complicated flavor, which is sweet, sour and salty at the same time. Each person has a different perception of the dish, too: some prefer it sweet and others like it really sour.

BK: How are the high food prices affecting your business?
They are having a large impact on all small street vendors. And I can’t raise my prices because people will complain and I’d lose customers. I voted for this government in the hope that this sort of situation could be averted, but obviously it hasn’t. So that’s it for me, I’m kind of through with Thai politics. Now all I can do is prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

BK: How good is your khao gaeng?
Well, you’ll have to ask my customers, but I think it’s pretty good seeing as I have a number of regular customers and most of it sells out at the end of each day.

BK: What are the best and the worst things about your job?
The best is knowing that khao gaeng will never go out of style as it is so entwined with the Thai way of life—it’s fast, cheap and easy to share. I also enjoy that my job keeps me in the loop because people love to gossip when they eat in a group! The worst thing is that my income is so uncertain due to the fluctuating food and gas prices, and taxes.

BK: If you could compare your job to a dish, what would it be?
I’d say a challenging dish like kaeng som (sour curry) because it’s all about finding a balance between flavors. Life is also about balancing career, family, friends and more—and it’s not easy.

BK: What’s your family situation?
It’s about as good and humble as it could be under the circumstances. My husband and I have a loving relationship so I consider myself lucky.

BK: What are your hopes for the future? Any advice for other khao gaeng vendors?
It would be bliss if I could have my own small restaurant. As for my fellow vendors, I would say don’t spend too much money on the underground lottery! Interview by Proudpisut Sang-ou-thai

How is Antapal different from a film like 2499?
2499 was a gritty “rock n’ roll” depiction of late-1950s gangster life, but Antapal looks more at the changing face of gangster culture as it tried to adapt to a rapidly changing society around the same time.

Why did you focus on this particular period in the movie?
That period was remarkable for everything: fashion, ideas, politics. It was a time of great change and energy, not just in Thailand, but all over the world. Elvis and rock n’ roll are universal.

How did you come to cast Noi (Krisada Sukosol) as a gangster?
I really wanted to strip away the classic image of the gangster, and Noi seemed made for the part. I wanted to show that gangsters don’t always have to act aggressively, but can be calm and collected before catching you off-guard. A polite gangster is one you can’t mess with because he is a ticking bomb—the next thing you know you’re at the hospital!

What was the hardest part of directing this movie?
Striking a balance between truth and fiction. In terms of production this meant ensuring a consistency of settings and props as we were shooting a period movie in a vastly different world. It was quite tough but also a great challenge to find the right places to shoot and we had to get pretty innovative at times.

What impact has winning the Best Director gong at the Suphanahong Awards 2010 had on your career?
I’m not one to let any recognition be a burden on my work. I won’t let anything take the fun out of directing a movie. Still, winning awards is a huge boost, even if it’s not my real aim. I just want to do my best as a story teller, so that audiences get the chance to watch a great movie.

What do think of the local film industry?
Making movies is certainly easier today because of advances in technology, so we have more up-and-coming filmmakers—but quantity is not the same as quality. So many movies rely on special effects but lack real substance. I daresay there are only really two styles that young Thai filmmakers try to emulate: Quentin [Tarantino] and Joey [Apichatpong Weerasethakul]. Both are stylistically impressive if you have a good theme, but we should be looking to forge our own identities.

What’s planned for your next film?
I want to do something about faith. I think nowadays people lack faith in themselves, their spirituality and their country. I want to produce a movie that has the power to nourish people’s spirits and ignite them to do something worthwhile. Proudpisut Sang-ou-thai