Indian restaurant Indus opens a decadent sister project in Chitlom

By Sarisa Pokawattana
| Feb 26, 2024

The buzz: Run by the same team as Indus, an authentic Indian restaurant that has been on the scene since 2005, the cozy new joint tapped Chef Sanket Hoskote to helm the kitchen, a chef who honed his craft in Dubai’s Carnival by Tresind and Bangalore’s Alchemy.

The vibe: Where Indus welcomes you with homey art deco vibes, Jharokha—which refers to the intricately designed windows of Rajasthan palaces—peeks into the rich craftsmanship of Indian style. The bar area at the front is inspired by Rajasthan's luxurious polo clubs, and that opulence is echoed throughout the venue with touches of mahogany fixtures and leather sofas. One part of the dining area faces the Ploenchit skywalk and a view of Bangkok’s blinking traffic lights that’ll make you glad you’re not outside.

The food: Jharokha prioritizes traditional Indian cooking techniques such as slow cooking, grilling, fire pit cooking, and a lot of their specialties are brought to life via a Kopa charcoal oven. Start off with their signature Bhuna Kaleji (B350), a light and crispy rose-shaped cookie with Indian spiced liver pate filling. The tiny dollops of spiced mango jam add a little sweetness. But you can’t say you’ve arrived at Jharokha without trying the Bheja Pav (B490). Inside a pocket of fluffy French toast sits goat brain topped with crispy, thin potato fries. Don’t let the ingredient scare you; the brain is rich and buttery—like foie gras with the familiar texture of Japanese uni. Showing off its fire pit creations, the Himmalayan Gucchi and Khumb (B450) introduces cream stuffed morel mushrooms alongside sousvide king oyster mushrooms. The green herbs sprinkled on top also gives the nutty, earthy vegetarian dish a refreshing aftertaste.

To get in some meat, opt for the Batak Seekh Kebab (B480). Traditionally, kebabs are made from chicken or lamb but this one is made from ground duck meat marinated in butter cream and cilantro. It tastes similar to a Thai homok curry fish cake dish, only these ones have added sweetness from the pineapple chutney at the bottom. If you’re coming in for a big celebration, get one of their curries to share. The six-hour slow cooked mutton in the Champaran Gosht (B590) is served in a claypot. Simply break the thin sheet of flour on the surface and indulge in the tender, buttery mustard-infused meat. You can also ladle the juices on top of some warm aromatic biryani rice or pop it on top of some classic naan. We recommend the chili cheese flavor (B180) for an addictive experience or go for the healthier but equally enticing option with the Chur Chur Chilli Paratha (B120).

Ending the meal on a sweet note, you can go for the Kesar Falooda (B250), a rose-flavored Indian ice cream perched on top of a gelatinous creamy saffron dome and topped with some candied cherries. If you still have more room, order the Banana Kulfi (B350). The longan honeycomb-shaped mousse and the Indian ice cream shaped like a bee hive is striking but feels very nostalgic, like a bite from your favorite pudding and a sip from banana flavored milk.

The drinks: For some tipple, the venue provides a selection of signature cocktails and reds and whites from around the world. The Masala Chai (B140), however, is a classic dessert pairing. Its fragrant milkiness is undercut with essential herbs that lends its desirable caramel hue.

Why we’d come back: Situated downtown, Jharokha is a prime location for both hungry foodies and special occasions. The a la carte and sharing menus are a call back to traditional culinary techniques and local and lesser known ingredients. However, it is the attention to detail and creative liberties that sets this venue apart from other Indian dining spots. Approachable yet elevated, Jharokha is also offering a 10% promotion off of every food order until the end of April.

2/F, Erawan Bangkok Building, 494, Ploenchit Rd., 082-997-3399, Open daily 12–10 pm.